Why does it all look the same?

Am I alone in thinking that the shoe stores look the same as they did last year? I've just returned from the GDS shoe in Dusseldorf and whilst I've seen some interesting new ideas, there is lots of same ole same ole shoe designs out there. Such as washed leather, distressed, raw stack wedges, vaquetta and veg tans (but thankfully very few gladiators - phew!)

Why is this? Well in case you didn't notice (LOL) we're in a recession. We recessionista designers are going to have to think more creatively, because our clients don't have much budget for new heels, new lasts and new upper patterns, they cost too much money that our clients don't have!

This is one of the skills of a designer - to be creative with what you already have. I've always thought it is much easier to design for the luxury market. You can do lots of new lasts, new heels, your budget is unlimited. Your customer also has a huge budget. She probably won't be thinking, 'cost per wear.' Hell she probably won't even be walking in them, preferring to use a limousine, so you will be able to specify nubuck soles that don't wear that well, because it won't matter, (something that the Daily Mail got it's knickers in a twist about recently).

So I was interested to see this new shoe designers work, exhibited at GDS. He did get creative with what he already has, he designed these shoes by taking classic brogues, cutting them up and re-pieceing the uppers. Brilliant! For more visit http://www.mistercheng.com/

Micam Time again!

I'm booked on the Redeye from Heathrow to Milan tomorrow, for my biannual visit to the Micam fair. Micam is one of the most important footwear fairs in the world and is the fair if you are interested in fashion shoes.

It is held every March and September in the Fiera Milano, which is based outside of the city near Malpensa airport.

So why should a freelance footwear designer attend a footwear show? Well....

This is the most important fair for me. I occasionally attend other shows, but I never miss this one. I meet clients who manufacture in Italy, it's an easy way of speaking to the factories that we work with because they all have exhibition booths at the show, they usually have samples ready to show us, so we can try them on and make any adjustments while we are there. I also cover the show for clients who are too busy to attend, I go and meet their suppliers and make sample selections, then in the evening after the show, I email the photos and prices to their office.

I network with people I know, it's a good way of catching up, especially with friends in the trade who live abroad, we only see each other because we both attend.

I meet potential new clients, who have seen that I am visiting the show from reading my website.

I visit the shoe factories that I know and we exchange information and ideas.

I buy lots of fashion magazines, particularly trade press that might be difficult to buy back in London.

I also walk the fair looking for new trends, I visit the vintage section in the bag show (Mipel) because it is usually a great place to get ideas and I visit Milans shops, to check out trends there.

So it's a really busy show for me.

But there are some fun bits, I always stay with my friend and fellow Buddhist Paola. She is an artist and I sleep surrounded by huge and quite dramatic pop art paintings! Then there is the British Footwear Association Party - always great fun and the UK shoe trade get on together like a house on fire, we love to catch up with each other.

Then the shopping, ooooh the shopping. I usually come back with a pair of shoes and something from my favourite store 10 Corso Como, but being a keen cook, I can't resist wasting time in the cooking dept of La Rinascente department store - this is another amazing store if you visit!

Then finally, being a boater I always visit the Navigli Area, the canal area, which always makes me appreciate the canals in the UK, because they just don't treasure the canals in Milan, which is sad.

If you ever visit the Navigli area of Milan, look out for the little old ice cream shop between where the two canals meet. It is fabulous inside, wooden carved cabinets with glass etched doors and lots of polished brass. And very nice ice cream. This area of town is also good for eating out.

Image for this post was borrowed from the Micam website which is here http://www.micamonline.com/micam/main.nsf/openSezione?openagent&sezione=MICAM0AA68

It's almost New Years resolution time...

and I'm getting many, many enquiries from those of you that have a shoe design based resolution.

Perhaps you fancy yourself as the next Tinker Hatfield (Air Jordan designer, pictured), perhaps you fancy yourself as the next Louboutin, perhaps you have lots of designs and ideas and you want to see them turned into real shoes?

I thought I'd reiterate some of the questions I get and answer them here.

I have lots of amazing shoe designs on paper and I want to sell them.

Unfortunately shoe companies don't buy in designs like this. They employ professional designers (either employees or freelancers like me) to do it. We are given a design brief, which we have to follow closely. We are trained to design shoes that can be easily made on a production line, we can design to a given price, we know how to provide the instructions to a factory to make the shoe. If you want to be able to sell your designs, then you need to study and gain a qualification, to learn the technical side of shoe production, to learn how to follow a design brief, then with hard work and luck, you can gain employment in the shoe trade and you will be able to see your designs on peoples feet.

I want to start my own shoe brand and I need samples

The first thing you are going to need is lots of money - it is hard to estimate exactly how much money you would need to launch a brand, but a few tens of thousands of dollars would not be far off the mark. Why so much money?

Well, one pair of luxury women's shoe samples from a sample maker in Italy could set you back about 500 euros. Then there's the flights to Italy and the hotel for two weeks (you cannot develop a new brand without visiting the factory, someone will have to go there.) In the UK, the lowest price for samples would be about £200 per pair, but (if you can find shoe makers that is), they are usually much more than that!

For sneakers it is more difficult as traditional shoe makers and sample rooms cannot make this type of footwear - you would have to convince a factory to work with you. If you want to design your own soles, then the sample mold will set you back about $1000 alone. Then you have to factor in travel to the factory and hotels and shipping costs for those samples. Convincing a factory is tricky, they will want to know what your business plan is, how many pairs order can they expect from those samples and when? If you can't answer those questions, they may think you are too much of a risk to them. Investing in a new brand is not only costly for you, it is costly for the factory. They will not see any return on their investment in you for several seasons and making samples for you will tie up their sample room, when they could be making samples for an established brand, which might attract guaranteed or better orders This is why they have to be cautious in deciding who to work with and this is why many of them do not take the risk of working with new brands.

If you want to be taken seriously, then it's a good idea to do a footwear course, it's an even better idea to write as business plan, it's an excellent idea to visit a trade show and do some networking.

I'm updating my website to include and education and jobs section - I'll be quizzing entrepreneurs and asking them advice and sharing it with you.

Good luck with your New Years Resolutions!

Detachable Heels? Yay or Nay?

The Inventor Patrice L Howard has designed and patented a idea for a detachable heel. Being a freelance shoe designer, I get to hear quite alot about new shoe concepts from inventors. I've seen detachable uppers from several inventors who are already in the market place and manufacturing, in fact there is even an online store devoted to the many brands - http://www.swaptopshoes.com/how-it-works, but this is slightly different. What do we think? Will it actually work? Is it just a gimmick? Is it a design solution to a problem that doesn't really exist?

I can't see that the inventor has made a prototype. They are looking for an investor to invest in their idea.

I know from getting involved with testing labs that the heel attachment is a weak point in high heeled shoemaking (it needs to support your entire body weight on a tiny surface area, so the attachment cannot fail) and quite serious injury could be caused should the heel detach from the upper. So the risk is alot higher with this shoe.

Also I think you might be limited with the heel designs that you can put on the shoe - wider, cuban heels are heavier and require more heel attachment, the stiletto attachment could be too small. With shorter heels you can end up with a rather bizarre 'banana' or 'Ali Baba' look to your shoes as the last doesn't pitch properly with a different heel.

So what do we think? Yes or No?

If I were the inventor, I'd be comissioning Kobi Levi to design it - imagine the possibilities. I'd like to see darts heels that you can detach so you can play darts at the pub with your 'heels' (then hobble home, probably!)

Fabulous magazine shoe design competition

Another one!

fabulous is the free mag that comes with famed scandal sheet News Of The World. So, once you have read what Ashley Cole has done and what Cheryl plans to do about it, get your pencils and sketchbook and get creating.

......and the deadline is March 29. the winning shoe design will be produced and on sale in faith stores this Winter 2010.

Link to article / how to enter here: http://www.newsoftheworld.co.uk/fabulous/fabulous_competitions/733535/Design-a-shoe.html

Interview with new designer Jili Allen

I came accross Jili Allen somewhere on the wild plains of t'interweb and was immediately struck by her designs. I was also impressed by her determination to make shoes as part of her product design degree and her willingness to learn more about footwear design on graduation.

So you studied a product design degree and you got a first class degree. Tell me about your degree show. You made shoes?

Product design wasn’t my first choice, it was in fact International Business & Modern Languages which I completed for a year before feeling the withdrawal symptoms of creativity! I have always been inquisitive and thinking of ways to improve everything, whether it be the usability of a utensil or the efficiency of a process; in this way, product design was therefore broad enough to be perfect for me. I love design, but especially shoes! The flexibility of the course allowed me to design anything and everything and I learnt the skills to be adaptable in my design approach; my greatest passion is, however, footwear and I was lucky enough to be able to create shoes for my Major Project.

I wanted to make something beautiful, yet meaningful; using shoes to highlight the issues surrounding over-consumption in our society. Using the anthropomorphic element, to make us think about what we are doing to ourselves, who we are stepping on. These products are designed to be commercial with a discursive voice; but not one which is forced upon you, subtlety within any message is important; who am I to preach? The degree show was hugely exciting and a great learning experience; when you have so much work that has got you to one piece, I worried that there was more I needed to show. However, it really made me appreciate what is behind every product we use and I have to admit, I find that quite magical. The whole process also led me to understand even more the importance of technical detail, as I made contact with a factory in China to get my samples made; only successful through distinct attention to detail.

*You did a shoe making course? What did you design and make?

I went on to London to study the hand-making of shoes with Paul Thomas for a month, creating my own pair of very much wearable shoes from design to pattern cutting to last to heel design and all the pins in between! This gave me a great insight into the great complexities of footwear design and manufacture and I have never looked at a shoe the same again! It was a fantastic opportunity and I cannot recommend Paul enough! I felt after my degree, it was important to understand the construction of a shoe to appreciate how to design shoes properly.

Luckily, I got my paws on some beautiful Vivienne Westwood fabric; which I contrasted with some soft black leather to create a pair of court shoes with influences of brogue. I wanted to make a pair of shoes that I could wear every day but that were different to your average court shoe, but that had definite class! Art Nouveau is my favourite art period, one which was encouraged while I was in Paris; I love the fluid languid lines that are so gorgeously feminine that when contrasted with brogue detailing which is quintessentially masculine, provides the balance of the working woman.

*How do you feel it differed from your degree course? Were the skills different?

Within Paul’s classes, students are allowed freedom of design; which differed intensely from the set briefs and strict guidelines we had to follow within the degree, as Paul says, “this course does not operate on set styles to make or generic teaching”. The class was also very intimate with only 3 of us within our group, which allowed for lots of one-to-one tuition and a fantastic atmosphere. The skills were very different from my degree, I couldn’t believe how completely physicl the whole process is! I was the proud owner of more that one blood-blister and calluses from the millions of pins used within lasting. Within shoe making, the 3D image is so important from the very beginning, and we were thrown straight in. With 80 hours to complete just one pair of shoes, but one pair of exquisite shoes that are wearable, usable, and created completely by your own hand; I found it one of the most satisfying experiences ever.

*What inspires you most as a designer?
The need to provoke, question and improve.

*Which shoe designers inspire you and why?
Nicholas Kirkwood’s shoe designs are absolutely divine! I remember when I first saw them I was astounded at how beautiful they were; they were so different, and seemed to tell a story. For example, the platform was completely unique within itself and coupled with the hidden pearl within the heel cleft; they was beauty, mystery and intrigue within one perfectly sculpted shoe! Also, a designer that I was introduced to after my graduation was Thea Cadabra, whose shoes are so inspiring; they are like fantasies within themselves, and Irregular Choice has provided this for the high street – beautiful! I suppose my main shoe inspirations are those that are an outfit within themselves; if you can wear all black and your shoes can tell a thousand stories without embellishment, making the clothing an accessory, and the shoes the main event; makes me ridiculously happy!

*What is your favourite pair of shoes?
Obviously I share a special affinity with the shoes I have made, but I love elegance and therefore hunt around the charity shops like a mad lady. I have quite large feet (flippers) and therefore it is difficult to buy vintage shoes. However, I found these beautiful navy blue soft leather peep-toe courts by ‘Renata’ from the 50s (which I was able to stretch). They have a triple layer butterfly on the toe alternating white and navy blue soft leather with a metal butterfly body within. They are so soft and elegant and make my feet look dainty and beautiful. They provide me with a bit of much needed bygone glamour!

*What would be your dream role?
A role that can combine my great passions; design, footwear, fashion, creativity, languages, progression, champagne (ok, maybe slightly wishful thinking!) and honesty. I would love to be a successful shoe designer of my own brand, yet I’m under no illusion that this doesn’t come with a lot of hard work and experience! I am a very determined person and I always promise to give my best in everything I do, and I always will.


Jili can be contacted via her website http://www.jiliallen.com/

Interview with Bespoke Footwear designer and maker Ago e Lesina

I work with a bespoke shoe maker in London and I know of many others. There has been quite alot of interest in bespoke footwear of late, the price of off-the-peg designer shoes has increased so much, it has almost reached parity with bespoke. So, why bother paying £1500 for a pair of Vuitton shoes when you can have your own unique design made just for you?

Most of the bespoke shoe makers I know make only womens but I recently came across Salvatore of Ago e Lesina, bespoke shoe makers in Italy and I thought I would ask him some questions about his business.

Salvatore says,

''I've been in bespoke shoe manufacturing for the past 15 years or so, I did my apprenticeship in Silvano Lattanzi's own hometown in the Marche region. A "forward thinking" traditionalist I recently decided to finally start a website and join in the virtual business world.''

What kind of shoes do you specialise in? ''I specialize in men's footwear but of course also make shoes for women. I think when you make men's shoes you can make women's but not necessarily the other way around as men's footwear tends to be a bit more technical.''

Do you carve your own lasts? ''I don't, I have them made by a last maker based on the measurements taken, but depending on the need, when the changes to be made are minor, I do modify standard lasts by the addition-removal method to change the form according to the clients' needed specs (adding being leather and removal consisting of the last material).''

Did you make shoes for any celebrities and if so, who are they? ''Interesting question, I have some real vip's among my clients, both in the Italian entertainment industry (TV and radio personalities, two actors and one football player) and politics (three senators, a few magistrates and one Regional President) however Italian privacy laws prevent me from disclosing their names without first attaining written consent. However, there would still be a problem as it would also be considered an illegal conflict of interest and so-called subliminal endorsement which is sanctionable by the antitrust authority (welcome to Italy!)''

What were your favourite shoes you ever designed? ''That's a tough question, every pair of shoes made feel like a sort of offspring! But I once made some plain Monk, one-strap, buttoned, walled chisel toes, made with burgundy box calf leather from Tuscany, a shoe I promised to remake for myself. Unfortunately one of the many pairs I neglected to photograph.''

Which shoe designers do you admire? ''The shoe designer-makers that inspire(d) me are Lattanzi, Ferragamo and Berluti. Lattanzi especially because he's not afraid of crossing what are sometimes arthritic fashion-for-men lines.''

Which decade was your favourite era in fashion and why? ''I think the eighties was my favorite, fashion was inspired by that pop cultural phenomena known as "Miami Vice," which helped bring back elegance and style in popular apparel for men and women, even in casual settings, an option for both young and old. I'm reminded by Sonny Crocket's Armani suits and slipper-loafers worn, against all the rules of bon ton, without socks... and what real shoe lover could condemn that short lived revolution...''

Which is your favourite kind of leather to work with? ''I love to work with box calf, its softness, lightness, beauty and strength make it ideal for luxury shoes.''

What is the future of bespoke shoe making for you? ''After all these years I still find that the smell of premium tanned leather arouses the senses, if they could only make a cologne of it, not to mention the tactile qualities. Bespoke shoemaking preserves these elements the best in the finished shoe. These are things that industrial shoemaking can never really communicate to the wearer and even less the manufacturer, overwhelmed by the odours of industrial glues. And this is why I'll be happy to continue making bespoke shoes no matter what happens to the economy, even if they should become economically unviable. But I think that will not happen anytime soon, as the Asian and Middle Eastern markets are just waking to the reality of what is best in the European footwear industry: Italian hand-made shoes.''

http://www.agoelesina.com

Am I Freelance or full time?

I 'm often contacted by other shoe designers who either want to go freelance or already are.

Because of the recession, I'd say there are probably more of us than there used to be as companies close and there aren't so many full time roles out there. Or are there?

I want to warn my fellow UK shoe designers to exercise caution when you are approached for freelance roles. Especially if the client wants you to work with them, full time, meaning you cannot take on any other work. If they want you to work in their office, using their equipment and they dictate your holidays and they won't let you subcontract, then, for me, alarm bells would start to ring.

Why?

Well, full time freelance is a bit of an oxymoron. In the eyes of the Inland Revenue you can either be a full time employee or freelance, but not both. In a time when companies may be looking to cut costs, I am seeing more and more evidence of what is essentially a ''tax dodge'' by companies. Should you be full time freelance, the initial benefits may be great (freelance rates with full time hours), but lots of risk to you. If the company changes it's strategy, you could be out of work instantly, no pay off, no notice and because you never had time for any other clients, no work. Not good. If the HMRC gets wind of the situation, you and your 'client' could be in trouble.
So, if you are approached about a freelance role or if you are freelance and working solely for one client, you should be aware of this. The onus is on you to protect yourself. Make sure you make it clear to the client that you will work for other clients and ensure that you have time to do this. If they insist you have to book time off (which will be unpaid because you are freelance, can you see how unfair this is?), you should refuse. There are plenty of freelance websites out there where you can ask questions about a specific role and needless to say the one of freelancer or employee is a very hot topic indeed.

''Because of the potential tax benefits enjoyed by freelancers, and the reduced liability for companies who use their services (instead of hiring employees), sometimes a firm might hire a freelancer to do what is basically a full time job – the would-be employee agrees to forego some of the security that comes with employment because of the tax breaks. Be warned though, the Inland Revenue doesn’t like this, and can force companies to convert full time freelancers into employees. As a general rule freelancers should only be hired because a certain skill or general manpower is needed for a short-term project, not as an alternative to properly employing a workforce. Should a freelance contract you’re being offered sound like a quasi-full time job, then it might be worth getting advice from a lawyer or accountant as to what the tax man might say. ''

From this link: http://www.unicornjobs.com/articles/2009/apr/10/all-about-being-freelance/

More here on our goverments website:
http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/paye/employees/start-leave/special/freelance.htm

and here
http://www.freelanceadvisor.co.uk/employment-advice/am-i-an-employee-self-employed-freelance-or-a-worker/