tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47967880116699471172024-03-12T18:53:07.739-07:00shoenistashoenista is a freelance footwear designer based in London, UKAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.comBlogger124125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-70434675105368754522022-05-27T05:14:00.003-07:002022-05-27T05:14:32.046-07:00I want to start a sustainable footwear brand - how do I find a sustainable shoe factory? Part 1.<p><br /></p><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRR-7C75DE9MqSnBF6vS05Dmw4arzrXU7jX89XGFRQncShYkuTUZ4S56GYnHqzUwGUxooBBZ2TATR4NjAZMYeGarCFi_BtLEqoZQedXaQChAXkA3bv4uWnt3ljeXofwkw7nukblzj2pwnkNn5-UNQ_V_SHdesl8sSvpgneH3AJPpO0auHoUq5mKA6-/s589/dubsuniverse.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="458" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRR-7C75DE9MqSnBF6vS05Dmw4arzrXU7jX89XGFRQncShYkuTUZ4S56GYnHqzUwGUxooBBZ2TATR4NjAZMYeGarCFi_BtLEqoZQedXaQChAXkA3bv4uWnt3ljeXofwkw7nukblzj2pwnkNn5-UNQ_V_SHdesl8sSvpgneH3AJPpO0auHoUq5mKA6-/s320/dubsuniverse.png" width="249" /></a></div><br /><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">Photo: Dubs Universe Kids sustainable sneaker brand is the newest sustainable brand we have worked on. </span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><br /></span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">If you ask many folks in the shoe trade for a sustainable shoe factory their answer could be ????</span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><br /></span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">There are factories that make sustainable footwear, but they make other footwear too. There are factories that get inspected regularly to make sure that they treat their employees well and don’t have any harmful processes. But that's down to you, the customer of the factory to set it up. When you employ a factory, you ask the questions, you conduct the inspections</span><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z s-lparen"> </span><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z h-lparen">(or</span><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"> pay someone to do so), you do the research in order to create the tech pack in a way that the footwear is made in a sustainable way.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">If you tell me that you want to create sustainable footwear, then I want to know, 'what do you mean by that, can you clarify?' Because it's a broad subject and I need to know your focus in order to guide you. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">The United States Environmental Protection Agency says - </span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Sustainable manufacturing is the creation of manufactured products through economically-sound processes that minimize negative environmental impacts while conserving energy and natural resources.</b></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">So, thinking about your sustainable footwear brand, what aspects will you focus on ? Here's some I can think of. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Worker rights and a living wage</b> - I can’t think of any sustainable brand that doesn’t care about their workers. Our working relationships with our factories and agents can feel like extended family. We want to make sure they are recognised for their efforts and can afford to pay their bills and live comfortably.</span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><b>Carbon Footprint</b> - whether it’s the distance from your factory to your marketplace and the air or shipping miles involved, or the carbon footprint of the materials you use, or the carbon footprint of your manufacturer, reducing the impact of footwear production is something we all want to do.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Recycled materials</b> - this is a popular request that we receive - on face value this is a great idea, but some recycled materials don’t perform as well as virgin materials. Durability is part of sustainability so we make a decision based on the performance of the material. We don't release new products without testing them!</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Circularity</b> - Whether your shoes are made of recycled materials or not, the unfortunate truth is that your shoes will be incinerated at the end of their life - shoes cannot normally be disassembled into component parts for recycling. innovations in this area include: shoes that can be composted, shoes that can be disassembled, shoes that are designed to be refurbished and donated and shoes that can be repaired. While we’re on the subject of circularity, leather was the first circular material that man developed, because it uses leftover waste from hunting and eating animals. </span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNI58rl2jcbTok8xNUZUHCSJWAlGJfUS8J3lQZWpGJxzS67x53gICik6R8TCkbBeh60lxHEYaaKJeU7JVOFBGe_7fudR_4zREySoHxygGFuOR3VmJssb9Ij63lTXqv6LXe_GgHQlynOojzSy4-lC4bPetZmjAgPwv8FXe_70W_-VqfUhSgdxrNs48S/s3264/leather%20store.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNI58rl2jcbTok8xNUZUHCSJWAlGJfUS8J3lQZWpGJxzS67x53gICik6R8TCkbBeh60lxHEYaaKJeU7JVOFBGe_7fudR_4zREySoHxygGFuOR3VmJssb9Ij63lTXqv6LXe_GgHQlynOojzSy4-lC4bPetZmjAgPwv8FXe_70W_-VqfUhSgdxrNs48S/s320/leather%20store.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Preventing Pollution</b> - Manufacturing processes can cause pollution, read through these horrifying statistics:- </span><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z url"><a class="dynamiclink" href="https://herbones.com/fast-fashion-statistics/" rel="noreferrer nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://herbones.com/fast-fashion-statistics/</a></span><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">. </span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">There are new processes that use less water, for instance waterless dying, in Italy there is a vegetable tanning consortium and the tanneries involved in that pledge to purify all water used in the processes, new technologies such as flyknit and additive manufacture have less waste material at the end of the process. </span></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Designing for Zero Waste</b> - some brands actively design for zero waste, for instance knitted uppers are not cut out, so there are no offcuts left over, other designers work on pattern engineering in order to cut out waste, or have processes to recycle leftover parts. 3D design means that there is less prototyping needed and therefore less unwanted samples leftover. </span></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy34h5Cx_zEhuHpLTcQx-AMDPLsgq-XJD2s5-iYDR0DoZqBOmlBl0vUcXEmfTjsILItrXZc8RTsDmlb8goHlyN2QX96ud6HoKo9m0N-qQIWGwEqNza07nRVqiNLqFvJ-f-j3_BRgg3zPCAK_yCGT9lP_wUbgTP9Ke9GYLAPmi8nNy-t3MEwjMvsCal/s1002/IMG-20180124-WA0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1002" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy34h5Cx_zEhuHpLTcQx-AMDPLsgq-XJD2s5-iYDR0DoZqBOmlBl0vUcXEmfTjsILItrXZc8RTsDmlb8goHlyN2QX96ud6HoKo9m0N-qQIWGwEqNza07nRVqiNLqFvJ-f-j3_BRgg3zPCAK_yCGT9lP_wUbgTP9Ke9GYLAPmi8nNy-t3MEwjMvsCal/s320/IMG-20180124-WA0001.jpg" width="287" /></a></div><br /><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z"><b>Vegan</b> - Doesn’t always mean sustainable, there are many petrochemical materials that are vegan and not so great for the planet, BUT there are new materials developed that are not only vegan but are made from plant based materials. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="author-d-1gg9uz65z1iz85zgdz68zmqkz84zo2qoxwyz72zz79zkz69zz88zup9z82zz84ztz86zni7tz90zz66zz122zz84ziez73z6z86z3rz73zz72z">So, what is your focus? What do you feel most strongly about, we want to hear! </span></div></span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-89889614010105637772017-06-15T07:09:00.000-07:002017-06-15T07:14:54.236-07:00I'm new to footwear Part Two - Researching. How can I help you, the designer to research for a new shoe project?If you are new to footwear product development and you haven't employed any design help before, it can be tricky to know what information a designer might need.<br />
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So I thought I'd share the research stage, what it involves and how to help your designer.</div>
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If you can present me with some of your own research, it gives me a basis for my own research. Perhaps start a secret pinterest folder? What to put in there? If the product category exists, when you begin, you could put in photos of rival companies product. This helps me in two ways. I can see not only the aesthetics of the product, I can also look at the price and see where a product is made. This can help us formulate our own brief and also help us when we speak to manufacturers. We can critique it thoroughly. Below, a screenshot from my own pinterest account which can be found here: <a href="https://uk.pinterest.com/shoedesigner/">https://uk.pinterest.com/shoedesigner/</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnk8b_xi5a7fKFGdmvWaum6eLy09rvVajq3X1mAf2s8enIBfDP8f5Ci9qffhKUvqiZtCC3AA5N0SNIuIrrwp4wVj79xTHIZV2LXTqG4QJ5I-mwOuJODG1SvJfi-yTrn4EVz8mAenmRhEE/s1600/pinterest_screenshot.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="857" data-original-width="1600" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnk8b_xi5a7fKFGdmvWaum6eLy09rvVajq3X1mAf2s8enIBfDP8f5Ci9qffhKUvqiZtCC3AA5N0SNIuIrrwp4wVj79xTHIZV2LXTqG4QJ5I-mwOuJODG1SvJfi-yTrn4EVz8mAenmRhEE/s320/pinterest_screenshot.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
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The board below is a development ideas board developed with help from a client. When you collect ideas for your pinterest board, look at the materials you want to use, logos you like, brands that you identify with, colours you love and don't forget to talk about the NOPES, what you don't want to see, that's important too. We can then meet either in person or online and discuss our shared research. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCiyV7zV9bGMvW49gZyi7G93Ri95CD8GcEevsTXsIT2uad9aDKwWiunA7QSZytUPVOFDvRtFBdT3j6vghSqinTuWHZXZ68s359giJ2dCAmh15xBJpTooXPwHQtY-yDdEXcnW6ntRnxGmI/s1600/ellesportsfootwearmaterialsboard.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1132" data-original-width="1600" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCiyV7zV9bGMvW49gZyi7G93Ri95CD8GcEevsTXsIT2uad9aDKwWiunA7QSZytUPVOFDvRtFBdT3j6vghSqinTuWHZXZ68s359giJ2dCAmh15xBJpTooXPwHQtY-yDdEXcnW6ntRnxGmI/s320/ellesportsfootwearmaterialsboard.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
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This discussion about the direction we wish to take will form the basis for the ideation sketches stage of the project. </div>
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And don't forget to include any inspiration at all you think might help me to help you. Especially for creative design, if I'm creating a brand for you, then I want to inject your personality and your taste into it. For instance, a client told me how much they loved the architect Frank Gehry. I researched both his architecture then his jewellery. From this I developed the mood board for the collection and the resulting research inspired me to create the theme for the collection. Here is the board.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9nP7nfN1WNp7JhrHSLA9pOg5M2g_StNA4UFACswE-mXPUrvx_ahs5xmWOD89dmB1WicYidItotzqITuIVkkfIzT6OSWVosA2F5uegFURH-UinOu_GS4tTIHM7Lmz3XOsW4v3bufeFlTI/s1600/ORIGAMI_KNOTS_FW2017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="1191" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9nP7nfN1WNp7JhrHSLA9pOg5M2g_StNA4UFACswE-mXPUrvx_ahs5xmWOD89dmB1WicYidItotzqITuIVkkfIzT6OSWVosA2F5uegFURH-UinOu_GS4tTIHM7Lmz3XOsW4v3bufeFlTI/s320/ORIGAMI_KNOTS_FW2017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And don't be ashamed to send me your own design scribbles. it's my job to work your ideas into something that can be made, this is my skill, please don't discount your own ideas because you aren't a fantastic artist. I still want to see your ideas. I have worked with professional designers who aren't fantastic artists either, but they still managed to create shoes that sold millions of pairs. I am interested in your ideas and how we can make them into shoes that people want to buy. That is all! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-5978179211587059052017-01-02T04:34:00.000-08:002017-01-02T04:34:25.194-08:00I'm new to footwear. How do I help you, the shoe designer to help me, the newbie? (Part one - USP)I'm blogging on this subject as it's 02 January 2017 and for us freelance consultants, this is always a peak week for enquiries from potential new footwear businesses. <br />
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We all make new years resolutions and mine happens to be to do more sketching and transform the list of blog post ideas into actual posts. So here is the first one!<br />
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Many of the enquiries we receive from newbies are quite vague and throw up more questions than answers. But the most common one is when we don't know what your USP (unique selling point) is and perhaps you aren't sure either. Well, we can sometimes help you to find it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWgpAPaElx_T45y5p3hChgSdiiLb_2SqQiR18XCqJ5eS2WEsQzV4nmC0-vONJl-rE4RVY2V15k5eHXS7GBaWfWdvIHLdfIv4c4cmBsX55f_0ZScyIehEzLWGNseY6Nrq8Q5eTkdeYkYU/s1600/IMG_022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWgpAPaElx_T45y5p3hChgSdiiLb_2SqQiR18XCqJ5eS2WEsQzV4nmC0-vONJl-rE4RVY2V15k5eHXS7GBaWfWdvIHLdfIv4c4cmBsX55f_0ZScyIehEzLWGNseY6Nrq8Q5eTkdeYkYU/s320/IMG_022.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
We work with a lot of existing fashion companies to develop product for them (as the photo above) , they are generally clear of what they want and will come to us with lots of ideas.<br />
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What we like to see is a clear vision of what your brand or collection should be.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUpvo_ShmpESOmWUcMLqfRvs-RBgPu_w7GFk0BnHQJYRhvaTjDNw8cIfu8qwpTPjinLAnb4QptGFKTCio8ikPy4qoIpY9oEgZq7wcBLQubIGc1srAdP0COvLPPH6iUjoa1Hm0YHbXe7M/s1600/saira_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUpvo_ShmpESOmWUcMLqfRvs-RBgPu_w7GFk0BnHQJYRhvaTjDNw8cIfu8qwpTPjinLAnb4QptGFKTCio8ikPy4qoIpY9oEgZq7wcBLQubIGc1srAdP0COvLPPH6iUjoa1Hm0YHbXe7M/s320/saira_01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Do you have a unique selling point for your brand? What is different about it that we cannot get from somebody else? The photo above is from a brochure for Saira, a brand which we helped to launch. The USP of Saira is their use of exclusive, limited edition fabrics that you will not see anywhere else.<br />
Why is this important for a new business? If your brand has its own USP, then it will mean that buyers are more likely to select yours rather than someone elses existing brand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hyphenhyphen3Ei7obC4vygkWFZO8Da6nAvfqa4AFGifkrN_a20-yVpWRNrJYVTVSNSRd-OdT6o7AtD3C4RoOcQThxEumGpxbkl0BwyyjzYqX3ywO3gMy_dpQOSm2wachUWkp4SvjpMQKUVozWIiA/s1600/homeys+website+2016.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8hyphenhyphen3Ei7obC4vygkWFZO8Da6nAvfqa4AFGifkrN_a20-yVpWRNrJYVTVSNSRd-OdT6o7AtD3C4RoOcQThxEumGpxbkl0BwyyjzYqX3ywO3gMy_dpQOSm2wachUWkp4SvjpMQKUVozWIiA/s320/homeys+website+2016.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Your USP does not necessarily have to be a crazy invention, for instance Homeys who we worked with (pictured above) has the ethos, 'finally cool slippers!' Your USP could be selling a shoe at a different price point, making it in a certain way or making it out of unusual materials. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-7434991990761249862014-10-20T11:50:00.002-07:002014-10-20T11:50:22.960-07:00The Importance of learning to design for production<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm writing techs right now. Techs (as my client in the USA calls them - more likely to be called specs or specification sheets in the UK), are the instructions to the factory to make the shoe.<br />
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So I've prepared my sketch presentation. The clients customer has reviewed it and selected. The collection is ready to be teched and sent to the resource, a week or so ahead of my client who will visit to develop it, there.<br />
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So there is this sandal - I spent quite a lot of time on it, my clients customer is very specific about what they like and sent me storyboards of their inspiration to work from.<br />
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We all liked this shoe - but I teched it today and half way through my illustrator render, I realised I've designed something that looks great but is physically impossible to construct. Kind of like that building above, by the famous artist MC Escher. Look closer, like I did. Could you build that building? I knew, once I looked closely that no one could build this shoe, and even if you could you would not be able to fasten the straps.<br />
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Anyway, I found a solution, the main concern was to not spoil the look of the design. Much swearing and head scratching later, I've done it. I now think it's possible. I had to get a last and cut some strips of paper up and figure it out in 3D but I'm there.<br />
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Never underestimate the importance of understanding footwear construction. It's important to create products that can be made, not illusions that remain a fantasy in an artists head.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-67920217794541673372014-09-25T06:33:00.000-07:002014-09-25T06:33:00.297-07:00Flopz Crowdsourcing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtfWqhXt826YgiICDHcWLEMb4zKtsgm04Sk7-Y48iXjegYgHLwdLoR7Lt4Od6vhVZjbH_dW7S2To5IV0Ts1tej4hSo4I451Ga8CqPQgvx3HFlfB__ho_S7ElAzeyvxqu072q1V-SvbKSA/s1600/Screenshot+2014-09-25+13.21.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtfWqhXt826YgiICDHcWLEMb4zKtsgm04Sk7-Y48iXjegYgHLwdLoR7Lt4Od6vhVZjbH_dW7S2To5IV0Ts1tej4hSo4I451Ga8CqPQgvx3HFlfB__ho_S7ElAzeyvxqu072q1V-SvbKSA/s1600/Screenshot+2014-09-25+13.21.06.png" height="320" width="280" /></a></div>
<br />
I worked with Flopz briefly last year, as a technical consultant, to help them refine their first prototype so they could bring it to market.<br />
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Following some refinements and adjustments, Flopz launched earlier this year. Aga and Alan, the founders, are now seeking further investment to help Flopz grow into an internationally known name. If you would like to help this unique new flip flop brand please follow this link.<br />
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https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1943871476/flopz-designer-flip-flops<br />
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You can purchase your own pair of Flopz on their website http://flopz.com/Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-38927277256562217642014-09-25T05:51:00.002-07:002014-09-25T05:51:24.418-07:00So where the blimmin' heck have we been?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One thing I've been told about social media and websites is that it's a game of keepy uppy. Well, you may have noticed that we dropped the ball and I guess some of you are wondering what happened to that shoedesigner that lives on a boat and blogs about the footwear business.<br />
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Well, I'm alive! I'm here and I'm finally trying to catch up after a crazy 2013 and an even busier spring and summer in 2014<br />
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So how have we been? <br />
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We've had our busiest two years in business to date - we've been full to capacity since July 2013 and since then we have been concentrating on serving our existing client base. We've been doing a little bit of consulting for the British Footwear Association too. We've done the odd days consultancy here and there for fledgling footwear companies, we've been to Micam and Pure several times and to Italy to work with factories.<br />
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We've also spent spring and summer of this year helping a relative who had a bad accident to find a retirement home and help them to move in and organise their affairs.<br />
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I am finally coming up for air, so it's time to start the engine on this blog again. I've a whole list of subjects to write about, thanks to you, my readers, who email me asknig for advice and my opinion on things. If it wasn't for you, I wouldn't have such interesting questions to answer and then blog about, so thank you all.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-14409315192683192802013-03-07T03:31:00.000-08:002013-03-07T03:31:51.478-08:00I want to go to a footwear trade show. Where are they?A question I get asked often is, 'where to find a shoe show?'<br />
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<b>This blog post focusses on the three main European Fairs that attract international visitors</b><br />
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The big show of the year for us shoe dogs is <a href="http://www.micamonline.com/" target="_blank">The MICAM</a> - happening twice a year in March and September on the outskirts of Milan in Italy, this show is aimed mostly at buyers who want to buy Italian footwear and there is also a bag show on at the same time <a href="http://www.mipel.com/en/" target="_blank">MIPEL Bag Show</a>, which is worth a look. We shoe designers love the edited vintage section in MIPEL, where you can actually buy vintage items to help with your research (or if you are me, buy a vintage item because you absolutely love it.<br />
MICAM has an International young designers section so if you are a noob and you need to sign up some accounts then you could apply for a booth in this section.<br />
As well as Italian made footwear, you can find most of the big brands at MICAM, plus some of the trading companies that do own label for chain retailers have booths there.<br />
If you are flying in from outside of Italy, then Malpensa is the nearest airport to the fairgrounds. You can reach central Milan by Metro from the fair in about 30 minutes.<br />
Don't forget to take a look around the shoe stores in the golden triangle. Take the metro to Duomo and start from there.<br />
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<a href="http://www.gds-online.com/" target="_blank">GDS</a> is the main footwear fair in Germany, held in Dusseldorf twice a year, again in March and September, usually the MICAM and GDS fairs are held about a week apart. The fairgrounds are very close to Dusseldorf airport and there is a free shuttlebus when the fair is on. Your show pass also entitles you to free public transport in the city and it's easy to catch a train into town, which is worth doing as there are some excellent shoe stores in the city centre. GDS has some of the same exhibitors as MICAM, but also a comfort and wellness focus. It's a better show to visit if you need comfort shoes, sneakers or young casual street fashion. <br />
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Held at the same time and on the same fairgrounds (you can use your GDS pass to enter), is <a href="http://www.globalshoes-online.com/" target="_blank">Global Shoes</a> , which is basically a China sourcing fair for low priced goods, as well as fashion, you can find flip flops, slippers and rainboots and there is a designer section where you can see the work of design consultancies should you wish to employ them to design you a range. <br />
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Finally is <a href="http://www.exporivaschuh.it/" target="_blank">Expo Riva Schuh</a> more commonly known as GARDA, in the footwear trade because it's held nearby Lake Garda in Northern Italy. This is the main show that retailers would go to to look for factories to develop own label product for their stores. The focus used to be mainly rainboots, slippers, beach shoes and other low end goods but it has changed over the years and even my luxury retailer customers visit this show now to buy certain things. I think one of the reasons this show is so popular now is the timing, held in January and June, it comes at the very start of the buying season, whereas MICAM and GDS are now really quite late for some buyers, coming right at the end of the buying season.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-38690141734573545512013-02-03T10:45:00.000-08:002013-02-03T11:16:04.920-08:00Why we don't work for free*<b>Or why we don't do spec work (i.e <i>speculative</i> work) and why you won't find us on a crowdsourcing site.</b><br />
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Another 'business of design' blog post - a chance for me to get on my soapbox and speak for those who feel they cannot. A subject very close to my heart that needs much more exposure than it seems to get.<br />
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Anyone who follows me on Linked In will know that I'm anti unpaid internships and am always quick to point out the legalities of this in the UK - they're not legal unless part of an educational course or for a charity - you are entitled to UK minimum wage. As Philip Green from Top Shop found out last year when the HMRC caught up with him and forced him to backpay dozens of previous interns for the time they had worked.<br />
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I'm not mad on sites such as People Per Hour either- you won't find me touting myself on there - they seem to be all about the lowest possible price, I don't think serious business people use sites like that to recruit designers, only those who think they can get the job done for $20 - these are not people who are going to last very long in the footwear trade if that is their design budget - it would buy about 2 pairs of production! :D Some of them (hello Zintro?) employ underhand tactics - setting up profilebots (fake profiles that are a software program - not a real person), on Linked In in order to spam their website. Ask yourself - if this is the tactics they use to attract you to sign up to their service, do you think they really care about you?<br />
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But as well as this, I get my knickers in a twist about crowdsourcing competitions and spec work, these are all related as they demand that you do design work for free with only a slim chance of being paid if you win.<br />
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I was recently invited to participate in one such design competition on a new fashion website and I thought I'd post my response.<br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">''I see an opportunity for you to gain a large amount of design work for free, then cherry pick only the best, with very few people from the crowd rewarded for their efforts. This is the reason why I'm against crowdsourcing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">It's a modern disease and it's especially unfair in this financial climate. Add to this unpaid internships and other kinds of spec work, because it discriminates against those who aren't wealthy enough to work for nothing. It's also wasteful, effort for nothing - this is one reason our planet is in such a mess and people are so unhappy, because of waste, or surplus. And it works both ways. If I'm not sure I'll 'win' the contest, will I put the same amount of effort as I would for Ms X who is passionate about her business and has provided me a thorough design brief and that I know I will be paid for it? Is this really the way to get quality work? </span><br />
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We should treasure creative people enough to pay them for the work that they do. So they can uhm.... eat and pay their bills, you know, live and stuff, just like you. </div>
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For instance would you dare ask five accountants to do your annual accounts for free then pick one and pay only him? So why is it ok to treat creative people in this way?</div>
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I personally don't think it is.''</div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: small;">For those of you who have read this far and agree with me (or perhaps you don't), there is more information on this website. If you're a designer and you agree, then why not join the movement?</span></div>
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http://antispec.com/</div>
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/Rant over, I'll get off my soapbox. Thanks for listening.</div>
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*Actually I am fibbing a bit. We do work for free but not for commercial businesses. As well as doing talks and setting projects in state educational establishments, I also volunteer at a local community enterprise every week, and then once a month at a Buddhist grand culture centre - Taplow Court near Maidenhead as a team leader, manning the reception, welcoming visitors and tourists and arranging tours around the house and grounds. My business partner is webmaster for these charities<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #009933; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;">www.the</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #009933; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 15px;">piratecastle</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #009933; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;">.org </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #009933; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;">www.</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #009933; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 15px;">compassionindying</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #009933; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;">.org.uk/ </span><br />
It's *this* kind of working for free that creates value in your environment - give your free work to non commercial concerns - it feels great!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-944213889347615582013-01-27T12:11:00.000-08:002013-02-03T11:15:17.859-08:00January Is Entrepreneur Month<span style="font-family: inherit;">I say this, because it's the month of the year when we get most contact from Entrepreneurs. I've covered this kind of business in depth on my blog as many of you tell me that there is little information out there for those that started new shoe design businesses. Even those books that claim to be about how to start a shoe business are so vague you wonder what the value of them is.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Today I received a great question from an aspring footwear designer. A young woman who wants to start her own footwear label. Which I answered in depth in an email but then I thought, 'this advice is too valuable - it needs to come out of my sent box and onto my blog where others can benefit from it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Question: <b>D<span style="background-color: white; color: #2a2a2a; line-height: 16.99652862548828px;">o you have any advice on becoming successful within the industry?</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2a2a2a; line-height: 16.99652862548828px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Answer:<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #2a2a2a; line-height: 16.99652862548828px;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You need lots of money, never underestimate how expensive it will be. Budget around £50,000 for your first two years, then you'll probably need the same again. It may take you 3 years to show a small profit. When Tamara Mellon launched Jimmy Choo as a ready to wear footwear brand, it was with a loan of about £130,000. People weren't automatically wowed by what she did, she had to invest. But she also knew all of the right people to promote her brand, she had worked at Vogue.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You need a unique selling point. There is absolutely no point doing what Louboutin does, or Nike does, buyers will buy Louboutin and Nike, because they know the quality is good and their deliveries are on time. Why should they take the risk with something which is the same but has the added risk of being new? They won't. Give buyers a reason to buy <i>your</i> shoes. It is fine to be a fan of Louboutin but if you simply copy him you won't emulate his success. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You have to be reliable - all your deliveries on time and good quality. The harsh truth is that you will only get <i>one chance</i> at this when you are a newbie. Deliver late once when your brand is not established and you've lost your chance, buyers will not risk their budget with you again. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You have to have an excellent pr and media strategy behind you. Because people need to know you exist in order to buy your shoes. I have seen amazing websites and product but no one knows who these people are nor do they visit their website because the brand owner did not understand how to manage social media, or the web or have grasped properly what they should do to promote themselves. So employ someone who understands how to do this or read as many blogs and articles and books as you can about pr, marketing and social media and learn how to do it yourself. In a way new shoe designers are luckier than they have ever been - you can now market your ideas to the world from your bedroom if you know what to do. </span></div>
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<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">You have to have good contacts - some buying teams will simply not speak to new designers. You need to be creative to find a way in. If you don't have these contacts then nurture them. How? Don't ask me! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You have to have a good business head on your shoulders. Not only creative in design but creative in the business arena. What will you do to stand out?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You have to be able to learn to use your own initiative - no book or training course is going to tell you absolutely everything in a step-by-strep-way - I often get asked how to do things but I don't have all the answers - you do, you just need to awaken to them. </span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; color: #2a2a2a; line-height: 16.99652862548828px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Photo credit: Photo of Shoe Designer Christian Louboutin from www.madaboutparis.com </span></span></b>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-19884399423131499662012-08-01T04:52:00.000-07:002012-10-19T04:52:43.077-07:00How do I find a manufacturer for my footwear project? Part Three - What to discuss?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIl79sq7DNeHNc73iWhaOsQz8TyptMVXWLJVVNTuNTDg3q6LnCRoOJ3VHw92BiYU_I-m1rWT8ZoR_Q8leM2I_WtsesTo8sSUyhMjmbxOIE5N60TeajlgC-zEGKh2buLYJYe9_QjkSn4g/s1600/broderiepumps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIl79sq7DNeHNc73iWhaOsQz8TyptMVXWLJVVNTuNTDg3q6LnCRoOJ3VHw92BiYU_I-m1rWT8ZoR_Q8leM2I_WtsesTo8sSUyhMjmbxOIE5N60TeajlgC-zEGKh2buLYJYe9_QjkSn4g/s320/broderiepumps.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
So you found a manufacturer and you are ready to discuss your project with them? Well done for getting this far.<br />
You may or may not have designs at this stage, if you don't have designs, then this doesn't necessarily matter.<br />
There are three things that a factory will always want to know immediately.<br />
<b>How much?</b> As in, what do you want to pay per style. It helps to have done your research and to be clear about this.<br />
<b>How many?</b> As in how many pairs. This is a big sticking point for many entrepreneurs. Often I get contacted by entrepreneurs who don't realise the large amount of pre-tooling that goes into footwear production. All of the components have to be ordered from suppliers and they are made to order to exactly fit the last (including the last itself if you wanted an exclusive last). <br />
That's components such as heels, toe puffs and heel stiffeners, insole boards, the press knives (little pastry cutter type things used to cut out the pattern pieces).<br />
It's really not worth tooling up for a dozen pairs, no component supplier would make tools in order to make a small order like that. So if you want just a few dozen pairs, then you should employ a small workshop that does hand cutting, but expect to pay much, much more as they will be making more of the components by hand which requires great skill and a lot of time.<br />
<b>When?</b> As in when do you want to receive delivery? For instance it is Mid October now, there is no way you would meet delivery for this Holiday season. You would be able to meet delivery for holiday season in 2013. So, for a completely new brand it is wise to allow about a year, for a completely new athletic footwear brand, perhaps as long as two years.<br />
If you can confidently answer these three questions from the factory then well done.<br />
The next bit of fact finding should be about how the factory likes to work. The questions you should ask should be -<br />
<b>When are your busy/quiet periods?</b> As a newbie if you can adjust your development timetable so you are not trying to get all of your samples in the middle of their busy period, then you might find it easier. As a newbie, you will always be at the back of the queue. <br />
<b>If I send you designs, are you happy to work with a hand sketch or cads? Do you want me to use your factory spec sheet or can I use my own? </b>Not all factories require cads, many (especially in Europe) are happy with a sketch with detail written on it. It's best to ask, it's also fine to ask if they can provide an example of something from someone else from a previous season that they were happy to work with.<br />
<b>What about components? </b>Again, this can vary by country. In China, I would normally send a colour cad, often (but not always) on an excel spreadsheet specsheet and the factory sources absolutely everything for me, the heel, last, materials, buckles, the lot. But when I work in Europe I might bring my own last that I developed myself, or an agent might drive me to a last maker and a heel maker and then materials suppliers so that I can work with them. The factorys' job is to order the insole board, heel and toe stiffeners, receive the components that I've ordered and assemble the shoe. I might even visit a fair such as <a href="http://www.lineapelle-fair.it/en/index.php" target="_blank">Lineapelle</a> and order samples of components and materials myself and bring them to the factory with me, together with the details of the supplier.<br />
<b>What are your sample charges? What about components costs?</b><br />
Some factories charge for samples, some do not. So find out the costs and payment terms. If you are developing your own heels or outsole moulds, ensure you have sufficient capital to pay for these - it can be as much as $1500USD for a sample outsole mould for a sneaker. Or $500 for a new heel. If you work with one of the fine Italian luxury footwear sample rooms then the going rate is about 500euros per pair.<br />
Once you have had this discussion, you are then ready to work with the factory! Good luck!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-33193925159482758862012-06-09T07:54:00.001-07:002012-06-09T07:54:54.685-07:00Shoe - redo from Mark Montano<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For you crafty types - customise a boring pair of ballet pumps with an applique owl design. Enjoy!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-66563327442462224402012-04-13T07:56:00.005-07:002012-04-13T08:23:39.570-07:00How do I find a manufacturer for my footwear project? Part Two - Where Do I Look?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbclvdJ032Gm5P2_Gy0UNzGjmRnWSQQkKivj8kRAOFnYTcmZUXJqmHNhMCQPTniMStndZPck8v5ZU3VIjMy00mkmEunYQzmJ-sDg0c74J4PYEzcFmi3aXyHC23jfwkBp-w5oA3sYNvVY/s1600/0180.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 269px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbclvdJ032Gm5P2_Gy0UNzGjmRnWSQQkKivj8kRAOFnYTcmZUXJqmHNhMCQPTniMStndZPck8v5ZU3VIjMy00mkmEunYQzmJ-sDg0c74J4PYEzcFmi3aXyHC23jfwkBp-w5oA3sYNvVY/s400/0180.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5730904031837645250" /></a><br />One you have listed the specifics for your footwear project (see this blog post for what to do <a href="http://www.shoenista.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/how-do-i-find-manufacturer-for-my.html">http://www.shoenista.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/how-do-i-find-manufacturer-for-my.html</a> ) <div><br /></div><div>You then need to find a factory. As menitoned earlier, you will need a factory that makes the type of footwear that you require. By now you should have an idea on where you wish to make your shoes, this could be for reasons of price or quality. </div><div> </div><div>In some cases, some kinds of footwear is known for being made in a very specific place, for instance if you require a traditional espadrille then you need to visit the area of La Rioja in Spain. Certain countries may have a certain handwriting or be known for a certain style, for instance luxury high heels from Italy, mens formal bench made footwear from England and sheepskin Uggs from Australia. Of course all of these kinds of footwear can be found in China as well!</div><div><br /></div><div>So how would you go about this then? I often receive contact from designers who say they are struggling to attract the attention of a manufacturer and it is clear to me why. Sending an email is unlikely to get a response from most shoe factories. Face-to face dialogue is by far the best way of presenting your ideas and if you can't do this, perhaps you should sign up for a business website, such as Linked In, join some of the groups and start a debate. You could add me - here is my profile - <a href="http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=19603758&trk=tab_pro" style="font-size: 100%; ">http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=19603758&trk=tab_pro</a></div><div><br /></div><div>People don't like to do business with strangers, so don't be a stranger, start a discussion or go and meet someone face to face. And remember, people will probably be queuing up to take on your project, but be wary of this, there are many who will offer to do the work, but very few who will be able to deliver, so check each offer over very carefully.</div><div><br /></div><div>Another good place to look for a manufacturer is a trade show. There are plenty of these, most of the countries which have shoemaking will also have a domestic trade show, the beauty of the trade show is that you will be able to compare different factories and check out their product all under one roof. </div><div><br /></div><div>Often the websites for these trade shows will have a downloadable brochure so you can do some research in advance, perhaps if you discover enough you could set up some meetings in advance.</div><div><br /></div><div>Before you work with a manufacturer, be sure of who you are dealing with, a footwear supplier found at random from a sourcing website may not be a good idea for your business at all.</div><div><br /></div><div>My next posting will be about what to take when you have a discussion with a factory. It may not be what you expect!</div><div><br /></div><div>Credits: photo from www.micamonline.com </div><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-28933138348162310572012-04-09T06:58:00.006-07:002012-04-09T07:20:53.150-07:00How do I find a manufacturer for my footwear project? Part One - Specifics<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEgDDazqSBLxM24aB3yseps4ZctemIeMHMrNqiktjkKScVzH7AO1Bug7piaGxPjG-QpFVA690m0_J4x1nzI68con82klZjGntXy95VOJ17qH612NuXOQgIO18aAp7fBjHzgCgXtTvjJtY/s1600/HF002scan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 382px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEgDDazqSBLxM24aB3yseps4ZctemIeMHMrNqiktjkKScVzH7AO1Bug7piaGxPjG-QpFVA690m0_J4x1nzI68con82klZjGntXy95VOJ17qH612NuXOQgIO18aAp7fBjHzgCgXtTvjJtY/s400/HF002scan.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5729404862444126130" /></a><br />This has got to be the question I am asked the most after, 'how do I get my shoe prototypes made?' <div>Well, it's quite tricky to find a manufacturer if you are new to the footwear trade. Many factories only work with established brands - the factories and agents that we work with tend to fall into this camp.</div><div>First of all if you require a footwear manufacturer, the first question to ask yourself is, what kind of footwear am I going to have made?</div><div>This is because shoe factories specialise only in one or two types of footwear - you cannot get high heels made in a sneaker factory. Some womens heel factories don't make long leg boots - they make only a specific type of footwear. This is because they don't have the machinery or the expertise or both. </div><div><br /></div><div>For instance, to make high heels you would need a heel attachment machine. </div><div>A pattern cutter in a factory that makes high heeled boots will be skilled at springing a boot pattern (this is the art of cutting the pattern so that there are no creases across the front of the boot). A pattern cutter in a sneaker factory wouldn't know where to begin to cut a pattern for a high heeled boot! Occasionally you get a cross over in fashion and this becomes more apparent. Like when there was a trend for long leg boots with sneaker outsoles and styling - I can't tell you the problems I had trying to get a sneaker factory to understand how to correctly engineer the upper pattern for a high leg boot....anywayyy, you get the picture!</div><div><br /></div><div>So, firstly you need to be specific about what you want - </div><div>Gender - mens, womens or kids?</div><div>Any special fitting issues? Width Fittings? Very large or very small sizes etc?</div><div>Construction - Heels or flat or both? If you are making sneakers, any specific construction such as board lasted or stroball? Goodyear Welted?</div><div>What about the soles? Are they moulded or not? Made from what?</div><div>Materials? Leather or synthetic? Textile?</div><div>Price? Low or High or somewhere in the middle? </div><div><br /></div><div>Check back in the next few days for Part Two - Where do I look?</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-53916215610706766532012-02-10T04:59:00.002-08:002012-02-10T05:13:04.397-08:00So who owns our athletes feet?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHqd9dX_YMVFNkg7PShWUwDVG4OyZHZQLGjFtfxYJajE8ibkRP1Pl1PxRURClsetUUV3m2a-mUCHE0PEGy3gcC6ZwZQJaBH8b13a8P36fvUsVXN8IWUuX8-8vwqLmZ2-dlwQqk4Jinvz8/s1600/31q7qnxj37L._SY395_.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 395px; height: 395px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHqd9dX_YMVFNkg7PShWUwDVG4OyZHZQLGjFtfxYJajE8ibkRP1Pl1PxRURClsetUUV3m2a-mUCHE0PEGy3gcC6ZwZQJaBH8b13a8P36fvUsVXN8IWUuX8-8vwqLmZ2-dlwQqk4Jinvz8/s400/31q7qnxj37L._SY395_.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5707493477816442418" /></a>I'm a Londoner and it's our Olympic year this year and yes, we're already suffering from p.r. overload.<div><br /></div><div>A big footwear related stink is kicking off over at the Olympics HQ over who owns our athletes feet.</div><div><br /></div><div>Athletes have contracts with footwear suppliers which stipulates that they must wear that brand, but British athletes are required to wear Stella McCartney designed Adidas kit and this is the problem. </div><div><br /></div><div>Nike sponsored athletes may step up to the podium barefoot to avoid breaching their contracts.</div><div><br /></div><div>I spent several years of my career working with athletes and it was an eye opener. Athletes go for the big multi million dollar contracts, but that doesn't necessarily mean they will wear the shoes. Especially football players I've found can be superstitious about what goes on their feet, they might only wear one brand. That meant unpicking the logo on their favoured footwear and attaching the logo of the brand that pays them the sponsorship. Yes I have had to do that as a junior footwear designer. But shhhh! I didn't tell you that. No, it didn't really happen. <shuffles nervously=""> I'm certainly not telling you which athletes were involved! No way! </shuffles></div><div><br /></div><div>Although I have to wonder, now in these days of HD tv, can this practise really go on anymore or are the interns simply being advised to stitch them more neatly?</div><div><br /></div><div>Pictured: Adidas team GB Sneaker can be purchased here <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0073REGN0/ref=asc_df_B0073REGN06506594/?tag=googlecouk06-21&creative=22134&creativeASIN=B0073REGN0&linkCode=asn" style="font-size: 100%; ">http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0073REGN0/ref=asc_df_B0073REGN06506594/?tag=googlecouk06-21&creative=22134&creativeASIN=B0073REGN0&linkCode=asn</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Story Courtesy of The Telegraph <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/9071610/London-2012-Olympics-Nike-insists-its-footwear-contracts-are-legally-binding-as-podium-row-continues.html" style="font-size: 100%; ">http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/olympics/9071610/London-2012-Olympics-Nike-insists-its-footwear-contracts-are-legally-binding-as-podium-row-continues.html</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-67386485310804690022012-01-30T09:29:00.001-08:002012-01-30T09:49:12.384-08:00ITS International Design CompetitionI've just been contacted again about this International design competition. This year it's the eleventh edition.<div><br /></div><div>The prizes are excellent, 5,000 euros for the accessories design prize and 10,000 euros for the YKK Award.</div><div><br /></div><div>Website is here <a href="http://www.itsweb.org/jsp/en/index/index.jsp" style="font-size: 100%; ">http://www.itsweb.org/jsp/en/index/index.jsp</a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://vimeo.com/27026419" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(17, 85, 204); font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: -webkit-auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969); font-size: small; "><b><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Arial; text-decoration: none; "><span >http://vimeo.com/27026419</span></span></b></a> </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-52107074252269084302012-01-28T12:11:00.000-08:002012-01-28T12:24:28.091-08:00A Lifelong Unrequited Love<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmeGLimbp9YwmnQFUDa92mu8dnngJSd7OimAzN5BE0eSBKrXtBsrhCcI3MjxeC49DZHh_Uz-SE6ky7FHUs8fjl6WUAAtr54avtxsD1LDUEfoY9QUde3Bg6tBMfGSyXazRloI_-R1jcrN0/s1600/81ns-9QVM3S._SL1500_.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmeGLimbp9YwmnQFUDa92mu8dnngJSd7OimAzN5BE0eSBKrXtBsrhCcI3MjxeC49DZHh_Uz-SE6ky7FHUs8fjl6WUAAtr54avtxsD1LDUEfoY9QUde3Bg6tBMfGSyXazRloI_-R1jcrN0/s400/81ns-9QVM3S._SL1500_.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5702780992784195634" /></a><br />Because I'm a footwear designer, I get asked often, what is your favourite shoe? <div><br /></div><div>I've done a few phone interviews with various BBC radio stations over the years, I get the impression that people expect me to be tottering around in Manolo Blahnik or stepping out of a limo in Louboutins, but no, I'm really not that kind of girl at all, never have been. Cannot do heels, I'm an outdoorsy type, walking a minimum of five miles every day, even more active in summer, even more walking plus some wild swimming and canoeing....</div><div>I took a pedometer with me on an overseas research trip once, I clocked up 15 miles each day!</div><div><br /></div><div>Anyway, I'm rambling on here. When I was all of 17 years old and living in Yorkshire, where I grew up, I was already an avid second hand shopper. We didn't call it vintage, then, just second hand. Needs must, who could afford the outfits in Just Seventeen? I certainly couldn't, unless I saved for months. </div><div><br /></div><div>Every Wednesday, it was second hand day at Wakefield Market and I often went with dad. At the market, I saw the shoes of my dreams for sale on a stall, oxblood leather Doc Martens Tassel loafers *in my size* for £4! They were unworn! I was in love. I tried them. They fitted like a glove. But I had only £3 - so I ran to find dad, borrowed the required £1 and returned to find......they had sold. Gone forever. :( I've never got over it!</div><div><br /></div><div>I have loved these shoes ever since, but still have never owned any. But they have a special place in my heart. I love you Doc Martens Tassel Loafers in Oxblood, you are ''Number One'' in my desert island shoes list. xxxx</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-59574743594869213102011-10-18T07:34:00.000-07:002011-10-18T07:45:27.858-07:00Urshuz New Eco Friendly Footwear Brand<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqq-W9XdmBHPKOv0UTqxDyVkpCqal_rUWobtxbLbHVbnFXkSjJd8j6tCUbxBrOcv-Atm1NaeR5HxhYfSb4JoISDrKxPMR0ZpzHR9vy_9A6HIGGhYyiXX2kesackoI36z83ZIq-MPj5g0/s1600/Beltzy+Graphite+%252B+OG+Sunburst.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqq-W9XdmBHPKOv0UTqxDyVkpCqal_rUWobtxbLbHVbnFXkSjJd8j6tCUbxBrOcv-Atm1NaeR5HxhYfSb4JoISDrKxPMR0ZpzHR9vy_9A6HIGGhYyiXX2kesackoI36z83ZIq-MPj5g0/s400/Beltzy+Graphite+%252B+OG+Sunburst.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664843280551209042" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi24jz4n7X7k7vUHmO3QJxUV3CD3OoO0jCj8m0NA1nZMfdrPwoBgmDD8Q52j1JJVkYuetW1bIT5CCNzqePiD2IGiWxpdUzlhuvzqoGprpCslzBFQevSzZdU9i4-pjPOQaz9iyiGZCdQRGI/s1600/Logo.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 153px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi24jz4n7X7k7vUHmO3QJxUV3CD3OoO0jCj8m0NA1nZMfdrPwoBgmDD8Q52j1JJVkYuetW1bIT5CCNzqePiD2IGiWxpdUzlhuvzqoGprpCslzBFQevSzZdU9i4-pjPOQaz9iyiGZCdQRGI/s400/Logo.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664843275126533218" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtmWTEP7pLCE1l2iwxFZlk_-J9hgVHS5Z0HkK9S4Sr0irQkkE_8uPWnwq_IfktEE_WSpQTNbNF2Mhc_GTn5oQZQKcoVojiujSreeiCov9T9DHUx2gxCmwKUHu1lrSa1VZUAJsfLExga0/s1600/3.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 316px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtmWTEP7pLCE1l2iwxFZlk_-J9hgVHS5Z0HkK9S4Sr0irQkkE_8uPWnwq_IfktEE_WSpQTNbNF2Mhc_GTn5oQZQKcoVojiujSreeiCov9T9DHUx2gxCmwKUHu1lrSa1VZUAJsfLExga0/s400/3.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664843268791959506" /></a><br />Eco friendly footwear brands are ten a penny, these days. But things have moved on. Thing is, what is the point of saying your shoe is recyclable when you'd have to be a genius with way too much time on your hands in order to disassemble it so you could pop the component parts in the bin?<div><br /></div><div>I'm pleased to say that there are companies out there that have asked this question themselves and the new shoe brand Urshuz (pronounced Yer Shoes) just launched with an innovative removeable sole. Once you're done, simply remove it and chuck it in the recycling or even better, send it back to Urshuz and they'll recycle it <i>into new soles.</i> Brilliant! You could also replace only the bits of the shoe that wear out, rather than the whole dog n' pony show!</div><div><br /></div><div>Intrigued by this new concept, I caught up with the designer of Urshuz to ask him some questions......</div><div><br /></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; color:#1F497D">You seem like an unusual company! As well as the shoes being unique, are there any other ways that your shoe company differs from regular shoe companies? </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">Our slogan is “Change Everything,” and in the process of building this brand, we really did have to change everything about our approach to footwear. Because this product is so unique, we had to re-think things every step of the way, from the way we design our collections, to our production methods, to our merchandising strategy. So really, everything about the way we conduct business is innovative and unique!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); ">How important were ‘green issues’ when you developed this line?</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">From the get-go, Grant (Urshuz Founder and Chief Creative Officer) thought it was important to make his footwear line green in order to reduce its impact on the environment. Because Urshuz are designed with detachable soles, it was obvious that one way he could offer a green shoe was to make our soles recyclable. His vision for green footwear guided his material selection and led him to thermoplastic rubber (TPR), which is 100% recyclable, and is now used to make Urshuz soles. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); ">Why are these shoes better than other eco friendly shoes that are out there? </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">These shoes are </span><i style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">different</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; "> than other eco friendly shoes in two ways. Our product offers consumers a simple, uncomplicated way to recycle. Because the soles and uppers are not attached with any glues, the soles can be easily detached, recycled and reused. We ask that consumers simply send back their worn soles (in exchange for a $5 discount on a future purchase), which we’ll use to make new soles. It’s as easy as that! Our brand has a green conscious, and as we grow, we’d like to improve our product and production methods to make them even more environmentally friendly. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">Secondly, most if not all eco friendly shoes out there don’t give consumers the option to choose and change their style. We’re offering a product that is green, </span><i style="text-indent: 6px; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">and</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-indent: 6px; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; "> promotes creativity and choice!</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); ">When can we get these in the <st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on">UK</st1:country-region></st1:place>?</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">Hopefully in the next month.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); "> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">We recently launched our online store and now offer shipping to the </span><st1:country-region st="on" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">United States</st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; "> and </span><st1:country-region st="on" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">Canada</st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">, and we’re currently (and hastily!) working on setting up shipping to other areas, including the </span><st1:place st="on" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; "><st1:country-region st="on">UK</st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); ">Any plans for a womens line? </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; ">We have a women’s line in development which is expected to debut in 2012. It includes boat shoes, mary janes, and some adorable sandals and flip flops.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px;">For more information and to purchase (and to hassle them about making their womens line available to those of us in the UK *cough* go here <a href="http://www.urshuz.com/">www.Urshuz.com</a> </span></span></p></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-43216111436173237312011-09-09T04:10:00.000-07:002011-09-12T04:27:10.788-07:00Why does it all look the same?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlh6Hs8xqG0p8sTz8vAQ-2a_982ED2t-9CJntYfliYh2YwtqynKQJfcoKmNFVSY3OU2UXxuxMJMLteac1FqDpKjpKB9Ng9u3oIZJ2hzf2yl3ghfjTz75K2zxf8k8B4vABaBJUE83687HE/s1600/piecedbrogues.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 311px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlh6Hs8xqG0p8sTz8vAQ-2a_982ED2t-9CJntYfliYh2YwtqynKQJfcoKmNFVSY3OU2UXxuxMJMLteac1FqDpKjpKB9Ng9u3oIZJ2hzf2yl3ghfjTz75K2zxf8k8B4vABaBJUE83687HE/s400/piecedbrogues.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651433165247664114" /></a><br />Am I alone in thinking that the shoe stores look the same as they did last year? I've just returned from the GDS shoe in Dusseldorf and whilst I've seen some interesting new ideas, there is lots of same ole same ole shoe designs out there. Such as washed leather, distressed, raw stack wedges, vaquetta and veg tans (but thankfully very few gladiators - phew!)<div><br /></div><div>Why is this? Well in case you didn't notice (LOL) we're in a recession. We recessionista designers are going to have to think more creatively, because our clients don't have much budget for new heels, new lasts and new upper patterns, they cost too much money that our clients don't have!</div><div><br /></div><div>This is one of the skills of a designer - to be creative with <i>what you already have. </i>I've always thought it is much easier to design for the luxury market. You can do lots of new lasts, new heels, your budget is unlimited. Your customer also has a huge budget. She probably won't be thinking, 'cost per wear.' Hell she probably won't even be walking in them, preferring to use a limousine, so you will be able to specify nubuck soles that don't wear that well, because it won't matter, (something that the <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2025689/These-Choos-NOT-walking-The-425-designer-shoes-look-old-tatty-day-s-wear.html">Daily Mail</a> got it's knickers in a twist about recently). </div><div><br /></div><div>So I was interested to see this new shoe designers work, exhibited at GDS. He did get creative with what he already has, he designed these shoes by taking classic brogues, cutting them up and re-pieceing the uppers. Brilliant! For more visit <a href="http://www.mistercheng.com/">http://www.mistercheng.com/</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-34578604789977392932011-08-08T03:20:00.000-07:002011-08-08T04:03:48.912-07:00How Do I sell My Shoe Designs?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiB7ctv3Ugj0s0xwxk6lj8uHLetkGtBrDoc9PDKcqjW6p4dstUc5w9RCu_-kGuutljKDEXnxPvUWTkbxwaM0Znzb01obBw1H5DW-GYCTH1Fnb5x4847UzjEHD-QJ6m5GmOQZhu5UGKuJw/s1600/unbrandedbeadflattie.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 284px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiB7ctv3Ugj0s0xwxk6lj8uHLetkGtBrDoc9PDKcqjW6p4dstUc5w9RCu_-kGuutljKDEXnxPvUWTkbxwaM0Znzb01obBw1H5DW-GYCTH1Fnb5x4847UzjEHD-QJ6m5GmOQZhu5UGKuJw/s400/unbrandedbeadflattie.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5638432390827469826" /></a>
<br />We are often contacted by budding new shoe designers, who have a portfolio of shoe designs and are keen to sell them and want to know how.<div>Footwear companies do not buy unsolicited designs in this way. Why?</div><div><div>The nature of the footwear trade is such that footwear companies have very specific needs. When we are contacted to help a company with their shoe designs they either give us a thorough design brief, or we have discussions with them to determine their needs and we then help them to write a brief.</div></div><div>A footwear design can be dictated by all kinds of variables. The factory, for instance. </div><div>If I am designing a shoe that will be made in Italy, for a mid price point, it's unlikely that I would design a shoe as the attached footwear spec sheet. The hand beading would be more suited to a shoe made in an Indian or Chinese factory and because of the price, perhaps we wouldn't make the sandal in leather. When designing for a client, I have to be aware of the capabilities of the factory they are using. There is no point in designing a shoe with a stitchdown construction if the factory does not have that machine.</div><div>Price is a factor. There is no point in designing some Swarovski encrusted amazing creation if our client has a budget of $10 ex factory. </div><div>Even factors such as weather, or cultural issues can determine the styling. When we designed shoes for a client in Asia we were requested to limit the amount of yellow in our colourways as it is a Royal colour and should not be worn unless you are the King!</div><div>As a shoe designer, one has to behave almost like an actress, getting into character, in order to understand what the customer of that particular client likes to wear. It is no good for the client if I just design shoes that I like and then try to push my personal taste on them. For instance I design lots of glamorous high heels but that isn't my personal style - I wear flats! Designing for others is a skill and I have to say I do enjoy the whole process of getting into character, understanding what that customer would like to wear. There is nothing more satisfying than knowing that you got it right. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>We do have customers who buy packs of designs from us. But they still dictate to us the kind of designs they'd like to see, before we put pen to paper and we do have to bear in mind where these shoes will be made.</div><div>There <i>are</i> companies that buy designs - to use in Footwear trend publications such as Footwear Plus. But this is a competitive area and they will want evidence that you have worked in a commercial environment and can forecast footwear trends. </div><div>So if you want to sell your work, what should you do? </div><div>Get some formal training. You need to understand footwear construction, otherwise you will make the mistake of designing shoes that cannot be manufactured easily.</div><div>Work as an employee to get some experience. Becoming a commercial designer is a difficult skill to learn, to appeal to the masses and to be able to design a shoe that looks great but isn't too costly to manufacture is a skill.</div><div>Or, you could learn to make shoes and set your own workshop up and make the shoes exactly as you please.</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-45130821860032653962011-07-27T06:47:00.001-07:002011-07-27T06:55:28.828-07:00Totally Mental Modular Shoe Design.Ok, call off the dogs. Forget flip flops with changeable uppers, forget removeable heels, don't bother with foldable ballet slippers. <div><br /></div><div>Designer Sharon Golan pwns all of you with her modular shoe design. Only 256 combinations to work on. Plus an instruction book and a DVD to figure it all out. </div><div><br /></div><div>What is it with Israeli shoe designers anyway? First Kobi Levi and now Sharon. Brilliant!</div><div><br /></div><div>Source: <a href="http://www.reuters.com/video/2011/07/19/a-different-shoe-for-each-and-everyday?videoId=217249776">Reuters</a></div><div><br /></div><div><object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" data="http://www.reuters.com/resources_v2/flash/video_embed.swf?videoId=217249776" id="rcomVideo_217249776" width="460" height="259"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.reuters.com/resources_v2/flash/video_embed.swf?videoId=217249776"> <param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"> <param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"> <embed src="http://www.reuters.com/resources_v2/flash/video_embed.swf?videoId=217249776" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="460" height="259" wmode="transparent"></embed> </object></div><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-51955439986302469652011-07-01T06:06:00.000-07:002011-07-01T07:22:49.671-07:00Who can make my shoe prototype?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUcBoLRFo8pm2IzDjjQFOT6JBQKs3mguGBlTmgpjzfUK4UxUqbHXk2s6xxyG-2JlikWQ70x2EgAwmeVLVsIKE-TnMid67bQoqr2ZDSUxal3abbNJ3LSxzgYBlrtJt1H3EJ2i89KmyW1w/s1600/ug.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 355px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUcBoLRFo8pm2IzDjjQFOT6JBQKs3mguGBlTmgpjzfUK4UxUqbHXk2s6xxyG-2JlikWQ70x2EgAwmeVLVsIKE-TnMid67bQoqr2ZDSUxal3abbNJ3LSxzgYBlrtJt1H3EJ2i89KmyW1w/s400/ug.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5624388028400937698" /></a><br />One of the most common questions we are asked is if we can make footwear prototypes. <div><br /></div><div>The answer is, no, this is not the focus of our business - we concentrate solely on design, not sampling. This is because we do not have a workshop. The designs that we create for our customers are made in the sample rooms of the footwear factories that will also be making the production. </div><div><br /></div><div>First of all, what is the function of a prototype? Is it to sell from? Is it to gain investment?Is it to test out a patented invention? </div><div><br /></div><div>I personally think that shows such as Dragons Den are a bit misleading - the entrepreneurs we have worked with at www.shoedesign.co.uk have not needed a prototype to gain investment. It's not really necessary. All I can think is that they need to see a prototype on Dragons Den because it would make rubbish television viewing if they didn't have something for us to look at! The most important thing to investors is a sound business plan. They will be more interested in your order forecast that whether that heel is a nice shape! The prototype comes <i>after</i> the investors. The usual course of action is business plan->investment->prototype.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you want to patent an invention of course you will need a prototype, but this would normally come after you gain investment, not before. You will need to consider the capabilities of the person who will be making this - do they have relevant experience to do a good job? Do they have access to the relevant machinery to make your prototype?</div><div><br /></div><div>If you want a prototype to sell from, beware - if you are selling to retailers, then it's really important that the shoe sample looks <i>exactly</i> like the production. So it really needs to be made in the sample room of the factory that will be making the production, otherwise it is impossible to get the same look. So you really need to find a suitable factory for your footwear range and this is why we always stress to business start up's that they need to start looking for a suitable resource sooner rather than later. And just the same as investors, they will also be interested in your business plan. If they can't see evidence of any orders, then it's pretty hard to convince them to take you on. </div><div><br /></div><div>Although we do not offer a factory introduction service<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>, we can help you with advice on how to go about this. </div><div><br /></div><div>More on our <a href="http://www.shoedesign.co.uk/trends.htm">website</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-5200786091877075642011-05-23T03:42:00.000-07:002011-05-23T03:52:52.961-07:00Sneaker Design Courses?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAC6RShQeK1ta44oCQg4ykw-DsfBAKvlWFeWvhfsJ_MZ02YhGUgH23GHn5oJiV7gOA389lLSf19wXTGZZMiFjbLcXlWsVJyZfuM7wH1ycpSAHkO1ZMMn5Bc_fB125fOF0icZKohH_X7YY/s1600/pensole.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 291px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAC6RShQeK1ta44oCQg4ykw-DsfBAKvlWFeWvhfsJ_MZ02YhGUgH23GHn5oJiV7gOA389lLSf19wXTGZZMiFjbLcXlWsVJyZfuM7wH1ycpSAHkO1ZMMn5Bc_fB125fOF0icZKohH_X7YY/s400/pensole.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609862715228617122" /></a><br />I do occasionally get asked about these but they tend to be thin on the ground. Sneaker designers tend to come from an ID background, which means they are as likely to be able to design phones, but that also means that they may not understand much about footwear construction. <div><br /></div><div>Students on footwear courses have to learn pattern cutting and making, but their courses tend to focus on traditional footwear and may only briefly touch on sneaker design.</div><div><br /></div><div>So I was interested to hear that Parsons School of Design has introduced the Pensole Program - a four week course specifically in sneaker design and tutored by a Nike designer.</div><div><br /></div><div>The great thing about this course is that in order to get a place you are judged on your talents as a shoe designer and not on the traditional qualifications. </div><div><br /></div><div>I hope we will see some exciting new talent and some amazing new shoe designers emerging from this innovative program.</div><div><br /></div><div>You may not be able to view this link as it requires a subscription to the USA magazine Footwear News, but you can always message me if you want to know more.</div><div><br /></div><div>Picture courtesy of Footwear News</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.wwd.com/footwear-news/pensole-program-debuts-at-parsons-3620160?src=nl/FN/20110523">http://www.wwd.com/footwear-news/pensole-program-debuts-at-parsons-3620160?src=nl/FN/20110523</a> </div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-20573413838402360552011-04-16T13:49:00.000-07:002011-04-16T13:55:38.188-07:00Cheesy Feet (geddit?)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwWj_-aj2XvHOIMEykHEUBIbTQlvURp-NOlIKgQ7IKgmlAPVSnD-Q-bG9YeQSCF6LmUxaT9DcZWj3pVJNH_-NYSs5ZQgtFC03YOZ1Sr6bqXeZOB1RhRVWENT1MGIhxdm4roTccrpl3Rg/s1600/jimmy-cheese-shoes-590jn041411.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLwWj_-aj2XvHOIMEykHEUBIbTQlvURp-NOlIKgQ7IKgmlAPVSnD-Q-bG9YeQSCF6LmUxaT9DcZWj3pVJNH_-NYSs5ZQgtFC03YOZ1Sr6bqXeZOB1RhRVWENT1MGIhxdm4roTccrpl3Rg/s400/jimmy-cheese-shoes-590jn041411.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5596287564278109378" /></a><br />I love 'Art' shoes, that is - shoes that aren't really shoes as such but are made for artistic purposes. Fashion Student Lisa Dillon has made some high heeled shoes out of cheese (yup, cheese you read this correctly).<div><br /></div><div>More here, <a href="http://www.stylelist.com/2011/04/15/shoe-made-of-cheddar-cheese-sandwiches/">http://www.stylelist.com/2011/04/15/shoe-made-of-cheddar-cheese-sandwiches/</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.stylelist.com/2011/04/15/shoe-made-of-cheddar-cheese-sandwiches/"></a><br /><div><br /></div></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-81082698039953373362011-03-05T01:22:00.000-08:002011-03-05T01:42:01.995-08:00Micam Time again!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GlY6nK4dpuPPeZ0qmfZ9EbE1wBy7UcSfGwjMUAgnzA6M9RUoG2-qI1BAhOc6hCvEVAEwYk63KJ9rs9KK62HgSjJeheMA2YwVmASUpMyzyPN_1_qp7bjYeQSHS9szZE6_g2IsRJ6c5tI/s1600/testata-visitatori3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 80px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GlY6nK4dpuPPeZ0qmfZ9EbE1wBy7UcSfGwjMUAgnzA6M9RUoG2-qI1BAhOc6hCvEVAEwYk63KJ9rs9KK62HgSjJeheMA2YwVmASUpMyzyPN_1_qp7bjYeQSHS9szZE6_g2IsRJ6c5tI/s400/testata-visitatori3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5580527113358854338" /></a><br />I'm booked on the Redeye from Heathrow to Milan tomorrow, for my biannual visit to the Micam fair. Micam is one of the most important footwear fairs in the world and is <i>the</i> fair if you are interested in fashion shoes.<div>It is held every March and September in the Fiera Milano, which is based outside of the city near Malpensa airport.</div><div>So why should a freelance footwear designer attend a footwear show? Well....</div><div>This is the most important fair for me. I occasionally attend other shows, but I never miss this one. I meet clients who manufacture in Italy, it's an easy way of speaking to the factories that we work with because they all have exhibition booths at the show, they usually have samples ready to show us, so we can try them on and make any adjustments while we are there. I also cover the show for clients who are too busy to attend, I go and meet their suppliers and make sample selections, then in the evening after the show, I email the photos and prices to their office. </div><div>I network with people I know, it's a good way of catching up, especially with friends in the trade who live abroad, we only see each other because we both attend.</div><div>I meet potential new clients, who have seen that I am visiting the show from reading my website.</div><div>I visit the shoe factories that I know and we exchange information and ideas.</div><div>I buy lots of fashion magazines, particularly trade press that might be difficult to buy back in London.</div><div>I also walk the fair looking for new trends, I visit the vintage section in the bag show (Mipel) because it is usually a great place to get ideas and I visit Milans shops, to check out trends there.</div><div>So it's a really busy show for me. </div><div>But there are some fun bits, I always stay with my friend and fellow Buddhist Paola. She is an artist and I sleep surrounded by huge and quite dramatic pop art paintings! Then there is the British Footwear Association Party - always great fun and the UK shoe trade get on together like a house on fire, we love to catch up with each other. </div><div>Then the shopping, ooooh the shopping. I usually come back with a pair of shoes and something from my favourite store 10 Corso Como, but being a keen cook, I can't resist wasting time in the cooking dept of La Rinascente department store - this is another amazing store if you visit!</div><div>Then finally, being a boater I always visit the Navigli Area, the canal area, which always makes me appreciate the canals in the UK, because they just don't treasure the canals in Milan, which is sad.</div><div>If you ever visit the Navigli area of Milan, look out for the little old ice cream shop between where the two canals meet. It is fabulous inside, wooden carved cabinets with glass etched doors and lots of polished brass. And very nice ice cream. This area of town is also good for eating out.</div><div>Image for this post was borrowed from the Micam website which is here <a href="http://www.micamonline.com/micam/main.nsf/openSezione?openagent&sezione=MICAM0AA68">http://www.micamonline.com/micam/main.nsf/openSezione?openagent&sezione=MICAM0AA68</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4796788011669947117.post-15567817954630695502011-02-28T02:36:00.000-08:002011-02-28T03:02:13.956-08:00Fashion Fringe UK Shoe Design Competition.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivXR3X7p9Y05zcy3hmjfIpZWNwFeCW1qCw2GGZZCRFYexDINjv5t2Nasrc2e4Toux8Ql7j8nv-g0TLANk0o2tLEkIQQw218be4DcKyuGZKGkhhOt_YAg6OkLHRGnSDFm8bf9Y38YnwSc/s1600/hiroko-roger-vivier-bruno-frisoni-09.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivXR3X7p9Y05zcy3hmjfIpZWNwFeCW1qCw2GGZZCRFYexDINjv5t2Nasrc2e4Toux8Ql7j8nv-g0TLANk0o2tLEkIQQw218be4DcKyuGZKGkhhOt_YAg6OkLHRGnSDFm8bf9Y38YnwSc/s400/hiroko-roger-vivier-bruno-frisoni-09.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578689943565814194" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; ">This is pretty much <i>the </i>Footwear Designer competition of the year (the other one being the Footwear Friends Award) and has been won in the past by fantastic new shoe designers who went on to become well known and successful in their field.</span></a><div><br /></div><div>This year Fashion Fringe have partnered with Bruno Frisoni, who will alos be judging the entries and the top prize is a six months apprenticeship with him, working on the Roger Vivier line in Paris. So a fantastic not to be missed opportunity.</div><div><br /></div><div>Applications for the 2011 awards are now open. <a href="http://www.fashionfringe.co.uk/accessories/">http://www.fashionfringe.co.uk/accessories/</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Image courtesy of www.stylefrizz.com Bruno Frisoni for Roger Vivier</div><div><br /></div><div>Just to add: it has been drawn to my attention that there are shoe design 'competitions' out there that may not be what they seem. Please be careful. Do not enter any competition that requests that you to pay them money to enter. Be sure of who you are dealing with. No genuine shoe design competition that I have ever seen has demanded money. The competition should be about your talent and not about how much you can afford to pay.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06203537128082361751noreply@blogger.com0