shoenista

ITS International Design Competition

2012-01-30T09:29:00.001-08:00

I've just been contacted again about this International design competition. This year it's the eleventh edition.

The prizes are excellent, 5,000 euros for the accessories design prize and 10,000 euros for the YKK Award.

Website is here http://www.itsweb.org/jsp/en/index/index.jsp

http://vimeo.com/27026419

A Lifelong Unrequited Love

2012-01-28T12:11:00.000-08:00

Because I'm a footwear designer, I get asked often, what is your favourite shoe?

I've done a few phone interviews with various BBC radio stations over the years, I get the impression that people expect me to be tottering around in Manolo Blahnik or stepping out of a limo in Louboutins, but no, I'm really not that kind of girl at all, never have been. Cannot do heels, I'm an outdoorsy type, walking a minimum of five miles every day, even more active in summer, even more walking plus some wild swimming and canoeing....

I took a pedometer with me on an overseas research trip once, I clocked up 15 miles each day!

Anyway, I'm rambling on here. When I was all of 17 years old and living in Yorkshire, where I grew up, I was already an avid second hand shopper. We didn't call it vintage, then, just second hand. Needs must, who could afford the outfits in Just Seventeen? I certainly couldn't, unless I saved for months.

Every Wednesday, it was second hand day at Wakefield Market and I often went with dad. At the market, I saw the shoes of my dreams for sale on a stall, oxblood leather Doc Martens Tassel loafers *in my size* for £4! They were unworn! I was in love. I tried them. They fitted like a glove. But I had only £3 - so I ran to find dad, borrowed the required £1 and returned to find......they had sold. Gone forever. :( I've never got over it!

I have loved these shoes ever since, but still have never owned any. But they have a special place in my heart. I love you Doc Martens Tassel Loafers in Oxblood, you are ''Number One'' in my desert island shoes list. xxxx

Urshuz New Eco Friendly Footwear Brand

2011-10-18T07:34:00.000-07:00

Eco friendly footwear brands are ten a penny, these days. But things have moved on. Thing is, what is the point of saying your shoe is recyclable when you'd have to be a genius with way too much time on your hands in order to disassemble it so you could pop the component parts in the bin?

I'm pleased to say that there are companies out there that have asked this question themselves and the new shoe brand Urshuz (pronounced Yer Shoes) just launched with an innovative removeable sole. Once you're done, simply remove it and chuck it in the recycling or even better, send it back to Urshuz and they'll recycle it into new soles. Brilliant! You could also replace only the bits of the shoe that wear out, rather than the whole dog n' pony show!

Intrigued by this new concept, I caught up with the designer of Urshuz to ask him some questions......

You seem like an unusual company! As well as the shoes being unique, are there any other ways that your shoe company differs from regular shoe companies? Our slogan is “Change Everything,” and in the process of building this brand, we really did have to change everything about our approach to footwear. Because this product is so unique, we had to re-think things every step of the way, from the way we design our collections, to our production methods, to our merchandising strategy. So really, everything about the way we conduct business is innovative and unique!

How important were ‘green issues’ when you developed this line?From the get-go, Grant (Urshuz Founder and Chief Creative Officer) thought it was important to make his footwear line green in order to reduce its impact on the environment. Because Urshuz are designed with detachable soles, it was obvious that one way he could offer a green shoe was to make our soles recyclable. His vision for green footwear guided his material selection and led him to thermoplastic rubber (TPR), which is 100% recyclable, and is now used to make Urshuz soles.

Why are these shoes better than other eco friendly shoes that are out there? These shoes are different than other eco friendly shoes in two ways. Our product offers consumers a simple, uncomplicated way to recycle. Because the soles and uppers are not attached with any glues, the soles can be easily detached, recycled and reused. We ask that consumers simply send back their worn soles (in exchange for a $5 discount on a future purchase), which we’ll use to make new soles. It’s as easy as that! Our brand has a green conscious, and as we grow, we’d like to improve our product and production methods to make them even more environmentally friendly. Secondly, most if not all eco friendly shoes out there don’t give consumers the option to choose and change their style. We’re offering a product that is green, and promotes creativity and choice!

When can we get these in the UK?Hopefully in the next month. We recently launched our online store and now offer shipping to the United States and Canada, and we’re currently (and hastily!) working on setting up shipping to other areas, including the UK.

Any plans for a womens line? We have a women’s line in development which is expected to debut in 2012. It includes boat shoes, mary janes, and some adorable sandals and flip flops.

For more information and to purchase (and to hassle them about making their womens line available to those of us in the UK *cough* go here www.Urshuz.com

Why does it all look the same?

2011-09-09T04:10:00.000-07:00

Am I alone in thinking that the shoe stores look the same as they did last year? I've just returned from the GDS shoe in Dusseldorf and whilst I've seen some interesting new ideas, there is lots of same ole same ole shoe designs out there. Such as washed leather, distressed, raw stack wedges, vaquetta and veg tans (but thankfully very few gladiators - phew!)

Why is this? Well in case you didn't notice (LOL) we're in a recession. We recessionista designers are going to have to think more creatively, because our clients don't have much budget for new heels, new lasts and new upper patterns, they cost too much money that our clients don't have!

This is one of the skills of a designer - to be creative with what you already have. I've always thought it is much easier to design for the luxury market. You can do lots of new lasts, new heels, your budget is unlimited. Your customer also has a huge budget. She probably won't be thinking, 'cost per wear.' Hell she probably won't even be walking in them, preferring to use a limousine, so you will be able to specify nubuck soles that don't wear that well, because it won't matter, (something that the Daily Mail got it's knickers in a twist about recently).

So I was interested to see this new shoe designers work, exhibited at GDS. He did get creative with what he already has, he designed these shoes by taking classic brogues, cutting them up and re-pieceing the uppers. Brilliant! For more visit http://www.mistercheng.com/

How Do I sell My Shoe Designs?

2011-08-08T03:20:00.000-07:00

We are often contacted by budding new shoe designers, who have a portfolio of shoe designs and are keen to sell them and want to know how.

Footwear companies do not buy unsolicited designs in this way. Why?

The nature of the footwear trade is such that footwear companies have very specific needs. When we are contacted to help a company with their shoe designs they either give us a thorough design brief, or we have discussions with them to determine their needs and we then help them to write a brief.

A footwear design can be dictated by all kinds of variables. The factory, for instance.

If I am designing a shoe that will be made in Italy, for a mid price point, it's unlikely that I would design a shoe as the attached footwear spec sheet. The hand beading would be more suited to a shoe made in an Indian or Chinese factory and because of the price, perhaps we wouldn't make the sandal in leather. When designing for a client, I have to be aware of the capabilities of the factory they are using. There is no point in designing a shoe with a stitchdown construction if the factory does not have that machine.

Price is a factor. There is no point in designing some Swarovski encrusted amazing creation if our client has a budget of $10 ex factory.

Even factors such as weather, or cultural issues can determine the styling. When we designed shoes for a client in Asia we were requested to limit the amount of yellow in our colourways as it is a Royal colour and should not be worn unless you are the King!

As a shoe designer, one has to behave almost like an actress, getting into character, in order to understand what the customer of that particular client likes to wear. It is no good for the client if I just design shoes that I like and then try to push my personal taste on them. For instance I design lots of glamorous high heels but that isn't my personal style - I wear flats! Designing for others is a skill and I have to say I do enjoy the whole process of getting into character, understanding what that customer would like to wear. There is nothing more satisfying than knowing that you got it right.

We do have customers who buy packs of designs from us. But they still dictate to us the kind of designs they'd like to see, before we put pen to paper and we do have to bear in mind where these shoes will be made.

There are companies that buy designs - to use in Footwear trend publications such as Footwear Plus. But this is a competitive area and they will want evidence that you have worked in a commercial environment and can forecast footwear trends.

So if you want to sell your work, what should you do?

Get some formal training. You need to understand footwear construction, otherwise you will make the mistake of designing shoes that cannot be manufactured easily.

Work as an employee to get some experience. Becoming a commercial designer is a difficult skill to learn, to appeal to the masses and to be able to design a shoe that looks great but isn't too costly to manufacture is a skill.

Or, you could learn to make shoes and set your own workshop up and make the shoes exactly as you please.

Totally Mental Modular Shoe Design.

2011-07-27T06:47:00.001-07:00

Ok, call off the dogs. Forget flip flops with changeable uppers, forget removeable heels, don't bother with foldable ballet slippers.

Designer Sharon Golan pwns all of you with her modular shoe design. Only 256 combinations to work on. Plus an instruction book and a DVD to figure it all out.

What is it with Israeli shoe designers anyway? First Kobi Levi and now Sharon. Brilliant!

Source: Reuters

Who can make my shoe prototype?

2011-07-01T06:06:00.000-07:00

One of the most common questions we are asked is if we can make footwear prototypes.

The answer is, no, this is not the focus of our business - we concentrate solely on design, not sampling. This is because we do not have a workshop. The designs that we create for our customers are made in the sample rooms of the footwear factories that will also be making the production.

First of all, what is the function of a prototype? Is it to sell from? Is it to gain investment?Is it to test out a patented invention?

I personally think that shows such as Dragons Den are a bit misleading - the entrepreneurs we have worked with at www.shoedesign.co.uk have not needed a prototype to gain investment. It's not really necessary. All I can think is that they need to see a prototype on Dragons Den because it would make rubbish television viewing if they didn't have something for us to look at! The most important thing to investors is a sound business plan. They will be more interested in your order forecast that whether that heel is a nice shape! The prototype comes after the investors. The usual course of action is business plan->investment->prototype.

If you want to patent an invention of course you will need a prototype, but this would normally come after you gain investment, not before. You will need to consider the capabilities of the person who will be making this - do they have relevant experience to do a good job? Do they have access to the relevant machinery to make your prototype?

If you want a prototype to sell from, beware - if you are selling to retailers, then it's really important that the shoe sample looks exactly like the production. So it really needs to be made in the sample room of the factory that will be making the production, otherwise it is impossible to get the same look. So you really need to find a suitable factory for your footwear range and this is why we always stress to business start up's that they need to start looking for a suitable resource sooner rather than later. And just the same as investors, they will also be interested in your business plan. If they can't see evidence of any orders, then it's pretty hard to convince them to take you on.

Although we do not offer a factory introduction service , we can help you with advice on how to go about this.

Sneaker Design Courses?

2011-05-23T03:42:00.000-07:00

I do occasionally get asked about these but they tend to be thin on the ground. Sneaker designers tend to come from an ID background, which means they are as likely to be able to design phones, but that also means that they may not understand much about footwear construction.

Students on footwear courses have to learn pattern cutting and making, but their courses tend to focus on traditional footwear and may only briefly touch on sneaker design.

So I was interested to hear that Parsons School of Design has introduced the Pensole Program - a four week course specifically in sneaker design and tutored by a Nike designer.

The great thing about this course is that in order to get a place you are judged on your talents as a shoe designer and not on the traditional qualifications.

I hope we will see some exciting new talent and some amazing new shoe designers emerging from this innovative program.

You may not be able to view this link as it requires a subscription to the USA magazine Footwear News, but you can always message me if you want to know more.

Picture courtesy of Footwear News

http://www.wwd.com/footwear-news/pensole-program-debuts-at-parsons-3620160?src=nl/FN/20110523

Cheesy Feet (geddit?)

2011-04-16T13:49:00.000-07:00

I love 'Art' shoes, that is - shoes that aren't really shoes as such but are made for artistic purposes. Fashion Student Lisa Dillon has made some high heeled shoes out of cheese (yup, cheese you read this correctly).

More here, http://www.stylelist.com/2011/04/15/shoe-made-of-cheddar-cheese-sandwiches/

Micam Time again!

2011-03-05T01:22:00.000-08:00

I'm booked on the Redeye from Heathrow to Milan tomorrow, for my biannual visit to the Micam fair. Micam is one of the most important footwear fairs in the world and is the fair if you are interested in fashion shoes.

It is held every March and September in the Fiera Milano, which is based outside of the city near Malpensa airport.

So why should a freelance footwear designer attend a footwear show? Well....

This is the most important fair for me. I occasionally attend other shows, but I never miss this one. I meet clients who manufacture in Italy, it's an easy way of speaking to the factories that we work with because they all have exhibition booths at the show, they usually have samples ready to show us, so we can try them on and make any adjustments while we are there. I also cover the show for clients who are too busy to attend, I go and meet their suppliers and make sample selections, then in the evening after the show, I email the photos and prices to their office.

I network with people I know, it's a good way of catching up, especially with friends in the trade who live abroad, we only see each other because we both attend.

I meet potential new clients, who have seen that I am visiting the show from reading my website.

I visit the shoe factories that I know and we exchange information and ideas.

I buy lots of fashion magazines, particularly trade press that might be difficult to buy back in London.

I also walk the fair looking for new trends, I visit the vintage section in the bag show (Mipel) because it is usually a great place to get ideas and I visit Milans shops, to check out trends there.

So it's a really busy show for me.

But there are some fun bits, I always stay with my friend and fellow Buddhist Paola. She is an artist and I sleep surrounded by huge and quite dramatic pop art paintings! Then there is the British Footwear Association Party - always great fun and the UK shoe trade get on together like a house on fire, we love to catch up with each other.

Then the shopping, ooooh the shopping. I usually come back with a pair of shoes and something from my favourite store 10 Corso Como, but being a keen cook, I can't resist wasting time in the cooking dept of La Rinascente department store - this is another amazing store if you visit!

Then finally, being a boater I always visit the Navigli Area, the canal area, which always makes me appreciate the canals in the UK, because they just don't treasure the canals in Milan, which is sad.

If you ever visit the Navigli area of Milan, look out for the little old ice cream shop between where the two canals meet. It is fabulous inside, wooden carved cabinets with glass etched doors and lots of polished brass. And very nice ice cream. This area of town is also good for eating out.

Image for this post was borrowed from the Micam website which is here http://www.micamonline.com/micam/main.nsf/openSezione?openagent&sezione=MICAM0AA68

Fashion Fringe UK Shoe Design Competition.

2011-02-28T02:36:00.000-08:00

This is pretty much the Footwear Designer competition of the year (the other one being the Footwear Friends Award) and has been won in the past by fantastic new shoe designers who went on to become well known and successful in their field.

This year Fashion Fringe have partnered with Bruno Frisoni, who will alos be judging the entries and the top prize is a six months apprenticeship with him, working on the Roger Vivier line in Paris. So a fantastic not to be missed opportunity.

Applications for the 2011 awards are now open. http://www.fashionfringe.co.uk/accessories/

Image courtesy of www.stylefrizz.com Bruno Frisoni for Roger Vivier

Just to add: it has been drawn to my attention that there are shoe design 'competitions' out there that may not be what they seem. Please be careful. Do not enter any competition that requests that you to pay them money to enter. Be sure of who you are dealing with. No genuine shoe design competition that I have ever seen has demanded money. The competition should be about your talent and not about how much you can afford to pay.

Burglar Identified by his Hello Kitty Sandals

2011-02-12T14:14:00.000-08:00

I used to design Footwear for the Hello Kitty license, the highlight being a trip to the Sanrio Headquarters in Germany, where we had coffee from a pink Hello Kitty coffee machine and we drank out of Hello Kitty mugs!

So when I saw this story I had to laugh. In Japan and other parts of Asia, it's not considered odd for men to like Hello Kitty. Infact I've sat in many a boardroom meeting besuited executives and smiled when they produce Hello Kitty stationery from their briefcase!

So, I read this story on Anime News Network a burglar in Japan has been identified by his pink Hello Kitty sandals. It sure beats the Reebok Classic which is the boring choice of villains in the UK!

Ok it's still January, but......

2011-01-18T03:34:00.000-08:00

I've already got a favourite shoe of the summer. Ok, there have been kazillions of fruit themed shoes in the past, but I really love this one by Charlotte Olympia. I just love the proportions - funny and sexy at the same time. I think there must be an unwritten rule that if you are shoe designer with Brazilian heritage, you MUST create a fruit shoe or people will be very disappointed.

Can be bought via Luisa Via Roma, the link is currently down, but you can find the info here:

http://www.polyvore.com/charlotte_olympia_shoes/shop?brand=Charlotte+Olympia&category_id=41

Shoe related Boats #2

2011-01-15T10:53:00.000-08:00

The previous post reminded me of other shoe inspired boats. I'm going to dedicate this post to the memory of Thames boat builder Peter Freebody. Here is one of his slipper launches.

If you want a slipper launch of your very own follow the link http://www.peterfreebody.com/slipper_launch_for_sale.php

Shoe related boats #1

2011-01-14T10:45:00.001-08:00

Now as some of you may know (and some of you may not), I'm a liveaboard boater, so I think about boats almost as much as I think about shoes.

If I weren't on the Inland Waterways in my narrowboat, I'd love to learn to sail. I found this Puma yacht online and it's for sale. But I don't think I'd get something with a keel like this up the River Lee (where my marina is).

If you have a fortune to spare, go here for more info. http://www.pumavolvo70forsale.com/index.html

Sexiest new shoe designer

2010-12-29T12:02:00.000-08:00

This award goes to Tabitha Simmons, she does sexy so well... gorgeous slender heels yet never tarty. I think she also has an amazing understanding of pattern and colour.

Best (and most influential) Shoe Range

2010-12-27T11:52:00.000-08:00

This is kind of similar to the Tart of The Trade award did last year, lots of High Street stores knocked off these two brands and funnily enough, Sienna Miller was seen in one of them - perhaps she should become a high street shoe buyer - she has an eye for the winners!

I'm giving the award to Surface To air (top) and Acne (bottom) . It's a tie!

Shoenistas 2010 Footwear Awards

2010-12-26T11:42:00.000-08:00

First award is the Lady Gaga award for freaky footwear....and it goes to - Lady Gaga for her meat shoes.

Yes I know they are disgusting but they're not a million miles away from what untanned hides are like. Vegans run away now, run like the wind!

Kirsty MacColl - In These Shoes?

2010-12-18T10:11:00.000-08:00

Ten years ago today since singer songwriter Kirsty MacColl was killed, as a tribute I wanted to post this tune of hers

Shoe Designer Zuzana Serbak

2010-12-18T05:08:00.000-08:00

I just discovered another amazing conceptual shoe designer, who works with materials such as Silicone and Carbon Fibre. Amazing shoes!

Zuzana studied in Prague and focused on making shoes with materials that one would not normally associate with dress shoes. She is currently in the luxury sector, but she is also available for freelance and she hopes to set up her own brand one day. If you are reading this, Zuzana, please, please do - your shoes deserve a wider audience!

You can read more about Zuzana (and also contact her) via her blog. http://zuzanaserbak.blogspot.com/

It's almost New Years resolution time...

2010-12-17T10:02:00.000-08:00

and I'm getting many, many enquiries from those of you that have a shoe design based resolution.

Perhaps you fancy yourself as the next Tinker Hatfield (Air Jordan designer, pictured), perhaps you fancy yourself as the next Louboutin, perhaps you have lots of designs and ideas and you want to see them turned into real shoes?

I thought I'd reiterate some of the questions I get and answer them here.

I have lots of amazing shoe designs on paper and I want to sell them.

Unfortunately shoe companies don't buy in designs like this. They employ professional designers (either employees or freelancers like me) to do it. We are given a design brief, which we have to follow closely. We are trained to design shoes that can be easily made on a production line, we can design to a given price, we know how to provide the instructions to a factory to make the shoe. If you want to be able to sell your designs, then you need to study and gain a qualification, to learn the technical side of shoe production, to learn how to follow a design brief, then with hard work and luck, you can gain employment in the shoe trade and you will be able to see your designs on peoples feet.

I want to start my own shoe brand and I need samples

The first thing you are going to need is lots of money - it is hard to estimate exactly how much money you would need to launch a brand, but a few tens of thousands of dollars would not be far off the mark. Why so much money?

Well, one pair of luxury women's shoe samples from a sample maker in Italy could set you back about 500 euros. Then there's the flights to Italy and the hotel for two weeks (you cannot develop a new brand without visiting the factory, someone will have to go there.) In the UK, the lowest price for samples would be about £200 per pair, but (if you can find shoe makers that is), they are usually much more than that!

For sneakers it is more difficult as traditional shoe makers and sample rooms cannot make this type of footwear - you would have to convince a factory to work with you. If you want to design your own soles, then the sample mold will set you back about $1000 alone. Then you have to factor in travel to the factory and hotels and shipping costs for those samples. Convincing a factory is tricky, they will want to know what your business plan is, how many pairs order can they expect from those samples and when? If you can't answer those questions, they may think you are too much of a risk to them. Investing in a new brand is not only costly for you, it is costly for the factory. They will not see any return on their investment in you for several seasons and making samples for you will tie up their sample room, when they could be making samples for an established brand, which might attract guaranteed or better orders This is why they have to be cautious in deciding who to work with and this is why many of them do not take the risk of working with new brands.

If you want to be taken seriously, then it's a good idea to do a footwear course, it's an even better idea to write as business plan, it's an excellent idea to visit a trade show and do some networking.

I'm updating my website to include and education and jobs section - I'll be quizzing entrepreneurs and asking them advice and sharing it with you.

Good luck with your New Years Resolutions!

A shoe design that totally sucks!

2010-12-01T02:24:00.000-08:00

Introducing the Foki shoe, first ever vacuum cleaning shoes, put them on and vacuum your house! They totally (and literally) suck!

I'd imaging anyone looking at you through the window whist you were wearing/using these would be in their rights to wonder what on earth you were up to in there, because I reckon they must make for some bizarre and creative movements around the back of the couch & by the coffe table in order to ensure you get every last bit of dust up.

All we need now is for the inventor to design a version for dogs to wear, then my dog can clear all his dog hair up after himself, now that would be progress!

http://crave.cnet.co.uk/gadgets/foki-vacuum-footware-lets-you-shoe-ver-your-house-50001741/

and the spelling pedant in me would like to point out to Crave.net that it is footwear not footware - we are talking shoes here, not pots n' pans!

Selfridges Shoe Galleries - where are our new designers?

2010-11-25T09:11:00.000-08:00

Ok, I admit it, I wasn't at all quick of the mark visting the new Shoe galleries at Selfridges, infact I was positively slow! In these days of the internet, the need for me to get out and look at shoes in shops isn't quite as pressing.

By the time a new trend hits the shops in London, it is six months since we shoe designers saw it at a trade show, so it's old news .

But when I went to the trade show Bread and Butter in Berlin in July, I spent an afternoon looking around the shops. What I saw was much more exciting, many more labels and designers. I actually got the 'I Wants', for this shoe or that shoe. Then I came back to London feeling a bit flat, because ihere I see the same old versions of designs I've seen at Micam, everyone is doing the same thing - nothing so new or exciting, because it's what the buyers want to buy.

So my impression of Shoe Galleries. Lovely shop fit, granted. The big names very much in evidence, presented in a way that I'm more used to seeing in the United States . More Kurt Geiger than you can shake a stick at and a decent selection of Azzedine Alaia (a personal favourite of mine).

But apart from the made it and established British Shoe designers (such as Rupert Sanderson and Nicholas Kirkwood), I couldn't see much evidence of many others, which is a shame. I left feeling a bit disappointed, because I was expecting to see something new and exciting, a new brand or designer and I didn't. Of course, there are other shoe stores and departments, Harvey Nichols is the best place to visit in London if you want newly discovered designers.

But I have friends who have started their own brands and they all say how difficult it is to get buyers in their own country to notice them and designers who mail me and tell me the same, which I think is a shame.

So come on British shoe buyers, support our new talent - we have some of the best footwear design eduction and talent in the world, time to give them some shelf space!

I'm posting some photos of new designers work just to give you food for thought.

and some links if you want to know more about them and especially to buy their designs!

Sophie Gittins http://www.sophiegittins.com/

Selam Yohans http://showtime.arts.ac.uk/SelamYohans

Kat Maconie http://www.katmaconie.com

Mr Zippys Trainers

2010-11-08T11:17:00.001-08:00

Yet another shoe design flash game, this time you have to design trainers for Mr Zippy. I especially like the technical stuff, this is the first flash game where they want you to add the features and benefits to your design and explain why!

Find it here: http://www.sycd.co.uk/primary/mr_zippy/index.htm

New Challenger to Kobi Levi

2010-10-27T03:42:00.001-07:00

Just found this shoe design (by Juliet G) on t'internet. Isn't it great? Very apt as I've just spent the last month working on equestrian footwear, which is a first for our consultancy. Now this is real riding footwear.

Link: http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/44461-popup.html

I want this wallpaper. That is all.

2010-10-26T14:40:00.000-07:00

Years ago I had a great T shirt from Nike that was just shoes printed all over. Now there is wallpaper, a similar idea, but even more brilliant.

I really really want this, but I'm not sure it'll work in the confined space of my narrowboat. So I shall just have to dream.

Thanks to http://www.freshdesignblog.com/2010/06/mother-in-law-shoe-designwallpaper/ for bringing this marvellous stuff to my attention. You can purchase it here:

http://www.notonthehighstreet.com/bodieandfou/product/wallpaper_mother_in_law

Detachable Heels? Yay or Nay?

2010-10-19T02:30:00.000-07:00

The Inventor Patrice L Howard has designed and patented a idea for a detachable heel. Being a freelance shoe designer, I get to hear quite alot about new shoe concepts from inventors. I've seen detachable uppers from several inventors who are already in the market place and manufacturing, in fact there is even an online store devoted to the many brands - http://www.swaptopshoes.com/how-it-works, but this is slightly different. What do we think? Will it actually work? Is it just a gimmick? Is it a design solution to a problem that doesn't really exist?

I can't see that the inventor has made a prototype. They are looking for an investor to invest in their idea.

I know from getting involved with testing labs that the heel attachment is a weak point in high heeled shoemaking (it needs to support your entire body weight on a tiny surface area, so the attachment cannot fail) and quite serious injury could be caused should the heel detach from the upper. So the risk is alot higher with this shoe.

Also I think you might be limited with the heel designs that you can put on the shoe - wider, cuban heels are heavier and require more heel attachment, the stiletto attachment could be too small. With shorter heels you can end up with a rather bizarre 'banana' or 'Ali Baba' look to your shoes as the last doesn't pitch properly with a different heel.

So what do we think? Yes or No?

If I were the inventor, I'd be comissioning Kobi Levi to design it - imagine the possibilities. I'd like to see darts heels that you can detach so you can play darts at the pub with your 'heels' (then hobble home, probably!)

Kobi Levi's wearable art

2010-10-18T16:03:00.001-07:00

Kobi Levi is a freelance footwear designer (just like me!) with a cheeky vision for wearable art.

I especially love his slingshot shoe pictured above.

Check his blog for more amazing prototypes. http://kobilevidesign.blogspot.com/

Zims Shoes

2010-10-11T03:08:00.000-07:00

Since the start of the year I've been working on a new footwear concept, Zims. We're not launching just yet, we're putting the finishing touches to the samples and it is all really quite exciting.

Check out the Blog here http://blog.zimshoes.com/ and the Facebook Group here: http://www.facebook.com/pages/ZIMS/420763365695

And the shoes? Well all will be revealed in due course, you will have to wait. :)

MICAM

2010-08-01T06:32:00.000-07:00

I will be in Milano for the Micam shoe fair from the 19th of September to the 22nd (the whole of the show basically). Please contact me at your earliest convenience if you want to meet as this is a busy show for me! Please also check my personal Twitter as I will be tweeting any exciting brands or trends I see.

Link to information about Micam http://www.micamonline.com/

Naughty, thieving Mr Park

2010-02-22T06:11:00.000-08:00

I do love a bizarre shoe thievery story:
''A second hand shoe shop owner stole more than a thousand pairs of designer shoes by posing as a mourner in Korea.
His haul of more than 1,200 shoes were displayed by police today in Seoul in the hope that their owners can retrieve them.
The 59-year-old thief, named only as 'Mr Park' had literally walked off with his booty from funeral homes and hospitals across the capital.''

Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1252063/South-Korean-police-uncover-Aladdins-cave-shoes.html

Source: Daily Mail

Fabulous magazine shoe design competition

2010-02-20T05:31:00.000-08:00

Another one!

fabulous is the free mag that comes with famed scandal sheet News Of The World. So, once you have read what Ashley Cole has done and what Cheryl plans to do about it, get your pencils and sketchbook and get creating.

......and the deadline is March 29. the winning shoe design will be produced and on sale in faith stores this Winter 2010.

Link to article / how to enter here: http://www.newsoftheworld.co.uk/fabulous/fabulous_competitions/733535/Design-a-shoe.html

ITS Shoe Design Competition

2010-02-14T15:14:00.000-08:00

I'm flat out busy (as I always am this time of year) but I thought I better blog about this competition to give you enough time to enter it. The ITS International Talent Search takes place every year - it's a competition ope not only to shoe designers but to accessory designers.

As I'm in a hurry, I'm going to C+P the entry letter here:-

Hello!

We just wanted to let you know that International Talent Support is back with ITS#NINE!!

If you didn't enrol last year, you can't miss the opportunity this year!

And if you did enrol but you didn't make it to the finals, this doesn't mean you will never make it! Remember that we had many finalists in the past who enrolled several times before actually being selected. So this could be your turn, you don't have to give up!!

The process is just the same as last year, so go to www.itsweb.org and read out very well all of the regulament for ITS#ACCESSORIES. You will notice that this year our partner for the accessories field YKK has changed the Special Project for the YKK Award, so read out very carefully what you need to prepare!!

And if you know about other young accessories designers who could be interested in enrolling, send us their contacts, or simply spread the word and have them enrol!

Our Schools & Contestants Office is always available for any doubt you might have:
schools-contestants@itsweb.org

We hope to receive your entry!!
All the best from ITS
ITS Team

You can find out more on the website http://www.itsweb.org/ Hurry because the deadline is 25th March 2010!!

Good luck and do let me know if you win!

It's been a really great week for Kicks

2010-01-29T05:06:00.000-08:00

This week, not one, nor two but three really cool sneakers. Two brands we already know as movers and shakers in sports footwear and one 'Noob'!

Top pic is Raf Simons. I think the shape of the buckes make this shoe.

Followed by Middle pic Visvims latest offer, the Patrician-Folk, I love this, what is essentailly a formal brogue but reworked as a sneaker construction with external heel support and a lightweight eva outsole. Both courtesy of the High Snobiety Blog

Finally who'd a' thought it? Bottom pic I'm sure you've all heard about Choos recent forays into Ugg territory? Before that, there was the Choo Hunter wellies collab.

Well, it doesn't stop there. Choo sneakers! I will start worrying when Tamara Mellon decides it's time to make Choo plush cuddly rabbit slippers. then we will know that her feet are really killing her! From Elle UK

Design Shoes - fab flash game

2010-01-21T02:43:00.000-08:00

This just popped into my inbox and it's good fun, from the fab games for girls website. Ok, you can't actually 'design' as such, but you can colour shoes in, in absolutely hideous garish tartans or over the top animal print. Give it a go! I think perhaps this might be a fantastic timewaster for any of you working an office.

Link to play http://www.hotgamesforgirls.com/exclusive-shoes-design.html

Just a quick plug - as you were.......

2010-01-18T05:07:00.001-08:00

Checking the Shudoo website today and I noticed that one of my designs has just been delivered in. It is named Temptress - are you tempted? Link

Fantastic new Australian bespoke shoes company

2010-01-16T05:51:00.000-08:00

Shoes of Prey are based in Sydney, Australia and make semi bespoke shoes to order. You can choose the materials, toe shape, heel, heel height and more.

The 'shoe designer' designing program on their site is absolutely brilliant - I'd say it is also a great resource for anyone wanting to be a shoe designer as the designs are so well drawn and in proportion and you can play with the different materials and heels to see how they look.

Go here to find out more: http://www.shoesofprey.com/

thanks to the blog http://www.lostateminor.com/ for drawing my attention to this great company!

Interview with new designer Jili Allen

2010-01-08T06:45:00.000-08:00

I came accross Jili Allen somewhere on the wild plains of t'interweb and was immediately struck by her designs. I was also impressed by her determination to make shoes as part of her product design degree and her willingness to learn more about footwear design on graduation.

So you studied a product design degree and you got a first class degree. Tell me about your degree show. You made shoes?

Product design wasn’t my first choice, it was in fact International Business & Modern Languages which I completed for a year before feeling the withdrawal symptoms of creativity! I have always been inquisitive and thinking of ways to improve everything, whether it be the usability of a utensil or the efficiency of a process; in this way, product design was therefore broad enough to be perfect for me. I love design, but especially shoes! The flexibility of the course allowed me to design anything and everything and I learnt the skills to be adaptable in my design approach; my greatest passion is, however, footwear and I was lucky enough to be able to create shoes for my Major Project.

I wanted to make something beautiful, yet meaningful; using shoes to highlight the issues surrounding over-consumption in our society. Using the anthropomorphic element, to make us think about what we are doing to ourselves, who we are stepping on. These products are designed to be commercial with a discursive voice; but not one which is forced upon you, subtlety within any message is important; who am I to preach? The degree show was hugely exciting and a great learning experience; when you have so much work that has got you to one piece, I worried that there was more I needed to show. However, it really made me appreciate what is behind every product we use and I have to admit, I find that quite magical. The whole process also led me to understand even more the importance of technical detail, as I made contact with a factory in China to get my samples made; only successful through distinct attention to detail.

*You did a shoe making course? What did you design and make?

I went on to London to study the hand-making of shoes with Paul Thomas for a month, creating my own pair of very much wearable shoes from design to pattern cutting to last to heel design and all the pins in between! This gave me a great insight into the great complexities of footwear design and manufacture and I have never looked at a shoe the same again! It was a fantastic opportunity and I cannot recommend Paul enough! I felt after my degree, it was important to understand the construction of a shoe to appreciate how to design shoes properly.

Luckily, I got my paws on some beautiful Vivienne Westwood fabric; which I contrasted with some soft black leather to create a pair of court shoes with influences of brogue. I wanted to make a pair of shoes that I could wear every day but that were different to your average court shoe, but that had definite class! Art Nouveau is my favourite art period, one which was encouraged while I was in Paris; I love the fluid languid lines that are so gorgeously feminine that when contrasted with brogue detailing which is quintessentially masculine, provides the balance of the working woman.

*How do you feel it differed from your degree course? Were the skills different?

Within Paul’s classes, students are allowed freedom of design; which differed intensely from the set briefs and strict guidelines we had to follow within the degree, as Paul says, “this course does not operate on set styles to make or generic teaching”. The class was also very intimate with only 3 of us within our group, which allowed for lots of one-to-one tuition and a fantastic atmosphere. The skills were very different from my degree, I couldn’t believe how completely physicl the whole process is! I was the proud owner of more that one blood-blister and calluses from the millions of pins used within lasting. Within shoe making, the 3D image is so important from the very beginning, and we were thrown straight in. With 80 hours to complete just one pair of shoes, but one pair of exquisite shoes that are wearable, usable, and created completely by your own hand; I found it one of the most satisfying experiences ever.

*What inspires you most as a designer?
The need to provoke, question and improve.

*Which shoe designers inspire you and why?
Nicholas Kirkwood’s shoe designs are absolutely divine! I remember when I first saw them I was astounded at how beautiful they were; they were so different, and seemed to tell a story. For example, the platform was completely unique within itself and coupled with the hidden pearl within the heel cleft; they was beauty, mystery and intrigue within one perfectly sculpted shoe! Also, a designer that I was introduced to after my graduation was Thea Cadabra, whose shoes are so inspiring; they are like fantasies within themselves, and Irregular Choice has provided this for the high street – beautiful! I suppose my main shoe inspirations are those that are an outfit within themselves; if you can wear all black and your shoes can tell a thousand stories without embellishment, making the clothing an accessory, and the shoes the main event; makes me ridiculously happy!

*What is your favourite pair of shoes?
Obviously I share a special affinity with the shoes I have made, but I love elegance and therefore hunt around the charity shops like a mad lady. I have quite large feet (flippers) and therefore it is difficult to buy vintage shoes. However, I found these beautiful navy blue soft leather peep-toe courts by ‘Renata’ from the 50s (which I was able to stretch). They have a triple layer butterfly on the toe alternating white and navy blue soft leather with a metal butterfly body within. They are so soft and elegant and make my feet look dainty and beautiful. They provide me with a bit of much needed bygone glamour!

*What would be your dream role?
A role that can combine my great passions; design, footwear, fashion, creativity, languages, progression, champagne (ok, maybe slightly wishful thinking!) and honesty. I would love to be a successful shoe designer of my own brand, yet I’m under no illusion that this doesn’t come with a lot of hard work and experience! I am a very determined person and I always promise to give my best in everything I do, and I always will.

Jili can be contacted via her website http://www.jiliallen.com/

Hilarious shoe thieves story.

2010-01-05T05:57:00.001-08:00

When I worked in Stylo in Leeds years ago occasionally someone would try and steal a left shoe from the shelf, if they could see the right shoe in the window, then they would steal that too. It would always be one of our most expensive styles, a Cheaney or a Loake.

But check this story:

'For a short while, the thieves were one step ahead of the detectives. And for Swedish police and shoeshop owners, that was exactly the problem: why were people stealing the left shoes of designer footwear from Stockholm boutiques?

Perhaps it was a case for Slipper of the Yard, but eventually the clues pointed only one way — to Denmark, where shops traditionally display the right shoe in their racks. Police were therefore able to announce yesterday that they had foiled a criminal masterplan to match up stolen left shoes from Malmö with the corresponding right shoes pilfered in Copenhagen'.

“Apparently this is a tried and tested approach,” said Stig Möller, a police superintendent in Malmö, Sweden’s third-largest city and scene of the initial crime. Staff at a shoe shop in the Entré shopping mall in Malmö saw two men in their fifties stealing left shoes at their boutique at the weekend. The duo escaped with seven left shoes which — if paired with the right shoes — were worth £900

- Full story here from The Times - http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/europe/article6975638.ece

Shoenista's 2009 awards - Minger of the Year

2009-12-30T08:20:00.000-08:00

This award goes to Irregular choice for their boot-clog-thing. Some questions I have to ask about this boot-clog-thing.

Does it bend?

Can you actually walk in this?

Will Granny MacPherson miss her kilt?

Can I store my firewood in it?

Was the outsole inspiration little Johnnys junior woodworking class?

WTF?

Danny, what were you thinking?

Thankyou so much to for drawing my attention to this minger, refinery 29.

http://www.refinery29.com/the_goods/quelle_horreur_6_of_fashions_u.php

Shoenistas 2009 Mutton Dressed as Lamb Award

2009-12-29T06:55:00.000-08:00

Goes to Ronnie Wood, no contest really. Gold Uggs, Ronnie, what were you thinking? Is he a wannabee WAG perhaps?

The 2009 Shoenista / Victoria Beckham Award for Glamour

2009-12-28T03:17:00.000-08:00

The Victoria Beckham award for glamour goes to Christian Louboutin (pictured, Vic wearing Louboutin for Rodarte credit: JustJarded)

The Tart of the Trade Award for most copied design.

2009-12-27T05:11:00.001-08:00

This award is named after an old shoe salesmans term for a winning style.

Ladies and gentlemen I give you, the studded strapped short biker (middle pic). I think possibly Russell and Bromley did this first, then everyone did their version. Infact I bet you can't find a shoe shop or shoe department on the UK high street that doesn't have them. I challenge you!

And judging by what I saw at Micam in September it won't be going away for 2010 - Sienna Miller - it's all your fault! (pics from The Daily Mail).

Special mention goes out to the Steve Madden 'Banglez' gladiator (top). See what you did there, Steve, you didn't copy anyone for once and you got a winner!

Shoenista's 2009 awards - The Lady Gaga Award

2009-12-26T05:16:00.000-08:00

Ok it's the end of the year so I've decided to hold my own blogosphere shoe awards. Number 1 is the Lady Gaga Award (AKA the WTF award) for out-there shoe design.

I'm going to award this one to Alexander McQueen.

Merry Christmas!

2009-12-25T04:31:00.000-08:00

Hope you have a fabulous day and that Santa brings you the shoes of your dreams!

More Andreia Chaves courtesy of Yatzer

2009-12-09T23:36:00.000-08:00

Had to post some more of this girls shoe design work, can't get enough of it. From Yatzer

You ain't seen me, right? The Invisible Shoe

2009-12-09T23:25:00.000-08:00

I love this concept by Andreia Chaves, shoe designer of Brazil. By creating a mirrored wedge shoe, your foot blends into it's environment.
Andreia is just about the most out-there shoe designer I have seen in a long long time. She says, "The fact that I grew up in a chaotic city like Sao Paulo, full of contrasts, being in contact with such diversity and constant exposure to different visual inputs, has inspired me in how I think and conceptualize my shoes. Looking at my work, I can clearly see influence coming from my South American sense of versatility. Also in the mix - what I have been experiencing in Europe."

From Yatzer

Martin Margiela to leave label of same name

2009-12-09T03:52:00.000-08:00

Not really shoe news, but I always find it a bit sad when a designer leaves thier own label. Jil Sander has never been the same since Jil Sander left her label and I can't see this one being any different.

Link to article

I loved the Martin Margiela label for it's avant garde designs, never afraid to do something that's really 'out there' and creative without being tarty or unwearable.

I also love the deconstructed website, with the index page, it's carrying the theme of the clothing right into html! Link to website

Shoes pictured on sale in Browns website. Link to buy

New Homeys website

2009-12-06T02:28:00.000-08:00

Dan just informed me via Facebook that his new Homeys website is now live. As well as a full range of Homeys to choose from (a good thing coz they seem to be sold out everywhere in the West End), you can also subject yourself to Dans awful jokes! Great! <-hint of sarcasm there

http://new.homeys.co.uk/

Shoes and Music #2 Morrissey and err Stella McCartney do shoes

2009-12-05T02:22:00.000-08:00

All over the web right now is the news that Morrissey and Stella McCartney are collaborating on a range of shoes. Didn't see this one coming.

Morrissey is one of our most famed vegetarian singers, have to say Mozza, you spotted a gap in the market there, because there aren't many veggy shoes for men.

What will he do? Well, I'm expecting a vegan version of the desert boot.

12 December 2009 - Edited to add: Stella just posted on her facebook page that this is a made up story. OK, own up - who started it?

Police take down dodgy Ugg websites

2009-12-04T02:12:00.000-08:00

Story on the news yesterday about the police removing 1,219 websites claiming to sell desirable items such as Tiffany Jewellery and Ugg boots. Most are hosted in China and there are no goods for sale, they just take your money and run.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/8392600.stm

I did a quick Google for Ugg boots this morning and if you do so too, you can see that most of the Ugg sites that come up in the search are not working anymore. What a minefuield for shoppers because there are lots! Feel sorry for those that tried to buy from the dodgy sites.

At least it gives me a chance for a shameless plug for http://www.shudoo.co.uk/, a genuine Ugg boot store. They now have the Kensington boot back in stock (pictured) so hurry if you want a pair!

Shoes and Music #1 in a series - New Model Army

2009-11-23T08:48:00.000-08:00

Last night at my friend Jess's house in Stokie, we were talking about old bands we loved. Jess recounted a tale of being stuck in the mosh pit at a New Model Army gig and how painful it was because of the bands' (and fans) penchant for wearing proper Northern England clogs. So I've decided to start a series on here - shoes and music, there is so much association of certain shoes with certain bands, I think it could run and run!
So - I bring you - New Model Army and clogs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqOWBLugj9E

http://www.clogs.co.uk/ the clogs being the North of England type of clogs where only the sole (and not the entire shoe) is wooden.

Newspaper shoes

2009-11-22T07:35:00.000-08:00

From http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120600251

I love these shoes, made from newspaper strips coated in plastic then hand woven. They look fab - well done to the designer Colin Lin!

The Verdict?

2009-11-17T06:49:00.000-08:00

I have to admit, I had better things to do than queue up all night in a rain and windstorm (!) for the Jimmy Choo for H&M collection, but all the same, I've been dying to know what it was like.
Why? Well H&M has a bit of a weird footwear offer, always looked like an afterthought and the quality is, well, meh!
H&M collabs always get tons of press - remember the Madonna range (which in the flesh, was vile, I have to be honest, here). So I guess Jimmy Choo did it for the pr (and judging by the comments from those who did queue up and buy), hoped that it sold out instantly before the rest of us could see what it was really like!

Those of you who did queue up? Well, here is a c+p of some comments from this thread on the fashion spot.
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f48/jimmy-choo-h-m-collaboration-81013-26.html

'Spent 80€ & they still are Jimmy Choo, made in China of course '
'I wasn't impressed. They were really painful on my feet (though it was said that they would get softer and more comfortable with wear since it's real leather but I didn't take the chance). They looked Ok, wasn't a "wow!" moment for me at least. I'm sure I can get something similar elsewhere for half the price and twice the comfort.'
'there were still a lot of items left untouched. And I'm really not surprised. For some of the shoes, I have no idea what they were thinking.'
'it looks like the normal h&m collection and the qaulity is so bad, I just hold a pair of "jmmy choo for H&M" shoes in my hand yesterday and they looked so trashy'

and another thing - who are these people who pay £300 per pair on ebay? Why?

A word of advice from me - if you must have Jimmy Choo at a discount price - sign up for email or Twitter alerts from a discount website. I like http://www.theoutnet.com/ and there are also real snake sandals on sale at the Jimmy Choo website (pictured) http://www.jimmychoo.com/ for around £180. They'll look and last better and they won't cut your feet to shreds.

Does this happen to you?

2009-11-16T08:28:00.001-08:00

You see a shoe and a bizarre thought pops into your head? I'm looking at the cruise collections on Neiman Marcus - I just showed this wooden platform to my business partner,Toby, he reckons this is, 'the kind of shoe that Grace Jones might wear to 'stamp on people's heads.' Really?

Linky http://tinyurl.com/yh57gcz

Shoe design Competition - Steve Maddens Sole Search

2009-11-13T03:10:00.000-08:00

Here's another shoe design competition, this time from zappos.com in conjunciton with Steve Madden.

What I especially love about this competition is that you upload your entry directly to their website, I have really enjoyed browsing the entries this morning. This is crowdsourcing at its best, because you can be a judge and vote for the winner!

It's also pretty different in that Steve Madden chooses the 'kits' that you can work on. Kit is what we call the last and outsole - us fashion footwear designers usdually choose from existing kit in the factory, mostly because developing your own 'kit' is expensive, so if you enter this competition, it gives you a little flavour of how a commercial designer might have to work, with existing kits and a swatch book. You have to learn to be creative within these design constraints.

Link to enter is here http://www.zappos.com/sole-search

The first prize is a trip to Las Vegas and New York where you get to pitch your design to Steve Madden himself!

80's things that were uncool in the 80's. A pondering

2009-11-11T03:17:00.000-08:00

I was a teenager in the 80's so I've a bit of a love-hate thing going on with the 80's fashion revival. For a start, the stuff that's in the stores now, the throwbacks, such as glitzy batwing sweaters was certainly not considered cool by us 80's trendies.

We were all about wearing head-to-toe black, bright red lipstick and doc marten boots. We wanted to be the 80's model Jeny Howarth (whose looks and style were the spit of noughties supermodel Agyness Deyn!). I also went through the obligatory goth phase but mustl've been a bit confused because I loved hip hop too and went to see a Public Enemy gig in all my goth finery!

I loved Duran Duran and they were hopelessly uncool in the Eighties. Now it seems to be ok to admit to liking them. Which brings me onto the reason for this post.

Reebok is rereleasing its pump hi top boot for it's 20th anniversary. I think it's actually gonna be cool this time around, yep. I can remember it certainly wasn't in the 80's. It was probably released as a 'response' to the runaway success of Nike Air.

I recall a particular party at some squatted apartment that I went to with a friend back then, it was a hip hop jam, with mc's dj, you know the sort of thing.

Well I say 'went' but they wouldn't let my friend in because he was wearing Reebok hi tops and they were considered uncool! They laughed at him.

So heres a piccie of the re-relased Pump boot in it's anniversary plumage. You know what? I tend to agree, this is cool, it must be a bit of a grower - a twenty year grower.

Moar Clogs FTW!!111!!!!

2009-11-10T14:15:00.000-08:00

You know when a trend is a big one when Private Eye get in on the act. Supermodels cartoon from the current issue.

Everyone is talking about clogs

2009-11-09T14:04:00.000-08:00

Before we go any further, are those imitation tanlines or some freaky kind of stockings? WTF?

Aaaanyway, the buzz around the shoe trade is clogs, clogs, clogs for SS2010.

I've posted these Chanel catwalk designs, these were part of the collection inspired by Marie Antoinette and her *cough* farm. I think it's very apt that Karl Lagerfeld should draw inspiration like this in these recent times, as the fashion world has a current Marie Antoinette, the fashion journalist Liz Jones, who feeds her pet chickens on organic pasta from Carluccios.

Balenciaga: my favourite SS2010 catwalk collection

2009-11-08T13:53:00.000-08:00

The runway shows are over for another season and I've had time to digest what I've seen.

Alexander McQueen was an eye opener, lots of us shoe designers loved his shoes, but for me, Balenciaga was the winner this season. To be fair, I think, trend-wise it's not such a huge leap from the monochrome gladiators of last summer, but I'm in love with these designs. I've always fancied myself as a bit of a hippy, so the details on these shoes really do appeal. There seem to be tribal elements there, the most frustrating thing when I see shoes like these is that I can't get up close and touch them and examine them to see how they are made. They are so fantastic I doubt whether we'll see them in any stores.

I can dream, can't I? Especially about walking in them. The last pair of Balenciagas I fell in love with and bought, I managed one step forward after standing up and fell flat on my face - I've since admitted defeat - high heels and me, we're not friends. :( Which is shame because I'd love us to be mates.

Interview with Bespoke Footwear designer and maker Ago e Lesina

2009-10-28T02:47:00.000-07:00

I work with a bespoke shoe maker in London and I know of many others. There has been quite alot of interest in bespoke footwear of late, the price of off-the-peg designer shoes has increased so much, it has almost reached parity with bespoke. So, why bother paying £1500 for a pair of Vuitton shoes when you can have your own unique design made just for you?

Most of the bespoke shoe makers I know make only womens but I recently came across Salvatore of Ago e Lesina, bespoke shoe makers in Italy and I thought I would ask him some questions about his business.

Salvatore says,

''I've been in bespoke shoe manufacturing for the past 15 years or so, I did my apprenticeship in Silvano Lattanzi's own hometown in the Marche region. A "forward thinking" traditionalist I recently decided to finally start a website and join in the virtual business world.''

What kind of shoes do you specialise in? ''I specialize in men's footwear but of course also make shoes for women. I think when you make men's shoes you can make women's but not necessarily the other way around as men's footwear tends to be a bit more technical.''

Do you carve your own lasts? ''I don't, I have them made by a last maker based on the measurements taken, but depending on the need, when the changes to be made are minor, I do modify standard lasts by the addition-removal method to change the form according to the clients' needed specs (adding being leather and removal consisting of the last material).''

Did you make shoes for any celebrities and if so, who are they? ''Interesting question, I have some real vip's among my clients, both in the Italian entertainment industry (TV and radio personalities, two actors and one football player) and politics (three senators, a few magistrates and one Regional President) however Italian privacy laws prevent me from disclosing their names without first attaining written consent. However, there would still be a problem as it would also be considered an illegal conflict of interest and so-called subliminal endorsement which is sanctionable by the antitrust authority (welcome to Italy!)''

What were your favourite shoes you ever designed? ''That's a tough question, every pair of shoes made feel like a sort of offspring! But I once made some plain Monk, one-strap, buttoned, walled chisel toes, made with burgundy box calf leather from Tuscany, a shoe I promised to remake for myself. Unfortunately one of the many pairs I neglected to photograph.''

Which shoe designers do you admire? ''The shoe designer-makers that inspire(d) me are Lattanzi, Ferragamo and Berluti. Lattanzi especially because he's not afraid of crossing what are sometimes arthritic fashion-for-men lines.''

Which decade was your favourite era in fashion and why? ''I think the eighties was my favorite, fashion was inspired by that pop cultural phenomena known as "Miami Vice," which helped bring back elegance and style in popular apparel for men and women, even in casual settings, an option for both young and old. I'm reminded by Sonny Crocket's Armani suits and slipper-loafers worn, against all the rules of bon ton, without socks... and what real shoe lover could condemn that short lived revolution...''

Which is your favourite kind of leather to work with? ''I love to work with box calf, its softness, lightness, beauty and strength make it ideal for luxury shoes.''

What is the future of bespoke shoe making for you? ''After all these years I still find that the smell of premium tanned leather arouses the senses, if they could only make a cologne of it, not to mention the tactile qualities. Bespoke shoemaking preserves these elements the best in the finished shoe. These are things that industrial shoemaking can never really communicate to the wearer and even less the manufacturer, overwhelmed by the odours of industrial glues. And this is why I'll be happy to continue making bespoke shoes no matter what happens to the economy, even if they should become economically unviable. But I think that will not happen anytime soon, as the Asian and Middle Eastern markets are just waking to the reality of what is best in the European footwear industry: Italian hand-made shoes.''

http://www.agoelesina.com

Am I Freelance or full time?

2009-10-27T06:16:00.000-07:00

I 'm often contacted by other shoe designers who either want to go freelance or already are.

Because of the recession, I'd say there are probably more of us than there used to be as companies close and there aren't so many full time roles out there. Or are there?

I want to warn my fellow UK shoe designers to exercise caution when you are approached for freelance roles. Especially if the client wants you to work with them, full time, meaning you cannot take on any other work. If they want you to work in their office, using their equipment and they dictate your holidays and they won't let you subcontract, then, for me, alarm bells would start to ring.

Why?

Well, full time freelance is a bit of an oxymoron. In the eyes of the Inland Revenue you can either be a full time employee or freelance, but not both. In a time when companies may be looking to cut costs, I am seeing more and more evidence of what is essentially a ''tax dodge'' by companies. Should you be full time freelance, the initial benefits may be great (freelance rates with full time hours), but lots of risk to you. If the company changes it's strategy, you could be out of work instantly, no pay off, no notice and because you never had time for any other clients, no work. Not good. If the HMRC gets wind of the situation, you and your 'client' could be in trouble.
So, if you are approached about a freelance role or if you are freelance and working solely for one client, you should be aware of this. The onus is on you to protect yourself. Make sure you make it clear to the client that you will work for other clients and ensure that you have time to do this. If they insist you have to book time off (which will be unpaid because you are freelance, can you see how unfair this is?), you should refuse. There are plenty of freelance websites out there where you can ask questions about a specific role and needless to say the one of freelancer or employee is a very hot topic indeed.

''Because of the potential tax benefits enjoyed by freelancers, and the reduced liability for companies who use their services (instead of hiring employees), sometimes a firm might hire a freelancer to do what is basically a full time job – the would-be employee agrees to forego some of the security that comes with employment because of the tax breaks. Be warned though, the Inland Revenue doesn’t like this, and can force companies to convert full time freelancers into employees. As a general rule freelancers should only be hired because a certain skill or general manpower is needed for a short-term project, not as an alternative to properly employing a workforce. Should a freelance contract you’re being offered sound like a quasi-full time job, then it might be worth getting advice from a lawyer or accountant as to what the tax man might say. ''

From this link: http://www.unicornjobs.com/articles/2009/apr/10/all-about-being-freelance/

More here on our goverments website:
http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/paye/employees/start-leave/special/freelance.htm

and here
http://www.freelanceadvisor.co.uk/employment-advice/am-i-an-employee-self-employed-freelance-or-a-worker/

New Jumbuck range now available at Shudoo

2009-10-22T03:07:00.000-07:00

Link: http://www.shudoo.co.uk/C~5000108~Jumbuck

Right now I'm working on storyboards for Jumbuck for next winter, but I already helped shudoo to develop the winter 2009 collection and it's now online and available to buy.

My favourite is the Studded Fringe Cherokee (£120) pictured here on X Factor contestant Rachel.

One for my fellow Twitterers

2009-10-13T11:52:00.000-07:00

Ok, this is a shoe /freelance designer blog, but please please please may I be allowed to add this? Please? Because it's tights, which are kind of close to shoes (in distance).

Twitter tights. These are great. I''ve become a bit of a Twitter addict, amazing what I've found on there. Funnily enough this came from a Tweet. So here they are 'Tweet tweet.'

Buy your own on Etsy and thanks to SaveOurShoes for the Tweet.

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=32544711

http://twitter.com/SaveOurShoes

The difference between a tribute and a knock off

2009-10-09T03:31:00.001-07:00

Shoe news today is that Steve Madden is being taken to court by designer Alexander McQueen. Quite frankly, looking at the knock-off that they've done, (black shoe boots - top pic), I'm really not surprised.

But I'm not angry at the designer either, (ok, ok I meant the person who sent a picture of the McQueen shoe to the factory in China). I've worked lots on the High Street and the value market, I know it thrives on catwalk trends and that your employer doesn't want to see your amazing creative idea for a new shoe boot, they just want to see a version of whats on the catwalk.

Some design houses are very litigous indeed, some to the point of being a bit obsessed about it. Jimmy Choos' original account on Twitter was just full of Tweets about who was going to get the 'cease and desist' letter next. Cannot find it anymore, but I'm certain they 'went after' a kiddies train ride for having the name Choo Choo?

Some brands do not seem care at all, see Prada, who I've heard, had a deal with their outsole maker to sell the outsoles to other brands once they had done with them.

But then there's 'The Tribute', which I quite like. See my last post about Insa Heels, you'll notice that one of the designs is for an heel that looks like a pair of legs. This was probably heavily inspired by Thea Cadabras' 'Maid Shoe' from 1980 (bottom shoe pic, above), but I like the way it has been updated for the Noughties, you will note that the heel is now size zero! If I was Thea and I saw this, I'd be flattered, not mad.

Insa Heels

2009-10-09T03:08:00.000-07:00

I've just had my attention drawn to Insa Heels, a London brand which puts out limited editions of it's designs, which are a collaboration between Designer Ruth Shaw and artist Insa. I used to work for the same company as Ruth, I'm not surprised she did her own brand, she is an amazing designer. I love the upper print and I especially love the kit, lovely tall slim heel and platform, very balanced.

Link http://www.insa-heels.com/content.php?gallery

The Platform reaches it's zenith

2009-10-07T22:43:00.000-07:00

Because I do lots of trend forecasting, I'm fascinated with how trends work and love to follow the cycle and forecast the waxing and waning of a trend. Platform shoes is a trend that usually lingers for at least three years, I think because once you've worn platforms, got used to your elevated status and have appreciated the way they can make you look skinny, then it's incredibly hard to come back down to earth.

So, just like in the early to mid nineties, when we last had a platform trend goin' on, everytime it gets to fashion week, I await more photos of skyscraper heels and clunking platforms.

But I reckon this trend has peaked and is now about to fade. Why? Look at these boots on the catwalk at McQueen, they are so OTT, it's as if a line is being drawn under the whole trend.

It's as if he is saying, 'enough is enough, have this monster shoe girls and then you can have no more.'

It's a platform overdose and I dunno about you, but it makes me wanna to go cold turkey.

Freelance Switch

2009-10-07T01:53:00.000-07:00

Just had my attention drawn to this excellent blog for freelancers. Thanks for the link, Loafer!

Some great articles, reading lists, advice and cartoons!

http://freelanceswitch.com/

Homeys now available for girls!

2009-10-03T03:25:00.000-07:00

I helped Dan realise his dream for a cool slipper for the famed British Sport of staying in. Now we all know that whilst staying in, eating pizza and loafing around is a popular man sport, we girls also love to lounge.
So after much nagging and hassling, Dan is now making the Homey in girls sizes and at long bloody last I can actually wear the slippers which I have longed for since Dan and I worked on the prototypes.
Link: http://www.homeys.co.uk/about.html
Available from the website and also from Office, Schuh, Topman, Topshop, Sole Trader and www.lookatmycrazyshoes.com

OMG! Shoes!

2009-09-30T01:29:00.000-07:00

This is definately Not Safe For Work, contains sound and rather alot of swearing! I love the sentiment though - OMG Shoes!

Now here's the science bit

2009-09-30T01:07:00.000-07:00

Found on the Gizmodo blog whilst researching the Mojito shoe - love it!

link: http://gizmodo.com/5365882/wait-this-is-a-shoe

The Mojito Shoe

2009-09-30T00:43:00.000-07:00

Designed by Architect Julian Hakes this is about as minimalist as you can get, even more minimalist than the United Nude Mobius strip shoe.

I'm a teeny bit suspicious though, no photos of it anywhere on the web, on the foot, being worn.

Link http://snapjudge.posterous.com/mojito-shoe-by-julian-hakes-very-very-new-lad

Looks pretty cool though doesn't it? Makes the old Ferragamo heeless shoes look a bit boring!

I didn't know which blog I should post this on

2009-09-29T01:40:00.000-07:00

Should I post this on my boating blog or my shoe blog. Hmmm. It's a tough call.

Ladies and gentlemen, I give you Prada Waders. So who are these aimed at then? I would imagine Madonna would've been a customer a few years ago, when she was going through her shooting and fishing and British accent phase, but now she's dumped Guy Ritchie. So who will buy them, then? Answers on a postcard.....

link: http://www.naxmix.com/fashion-kill/2009/9/28/prada-waders.html

from Naxmix via Twitter. http://twitter.com/NAXMIX

Thanks Naxmix!

The problem with thigh length boots....

2009-09-22T01:38:00.000-07:00

Thigh boots are on trend. Me being a smug shoenista that I am, I've had mine for a few seasons now. I have to admit, they give you the urge to slap your thigh, like a pantomime principle boy (overseas readers of this blog, you might have to Google it, it's a very British thing). But they are warm and wonderful if you don't like your knees. Although I draw the line at high heeled ones. Too Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman.

But, from a retailers point of view, thigh length boots are a nightmare to display. It's impossible to get them to look good. I photographed this one in a store window of Milan. They really struggled with this one didn't they? Perhaps someone needs to invent an artificial bendy leg, quick and rescue these poor vendors and their boots.

Micam was excellent

2009-09-21T01:21:00.000-07:00

I had a really good time at Micam. Some productive meetings were had. Some lovely new factories (to me) we met.

Although new trend was a bit thin on the ground I'm pleased to announce that the gladiator sandal is in it's death throes. I do actually like gladiators, I just get a bit bored when a trend hangs around for what seems like an age.

Super high platforms are still on trend too - no good for a boater like me. Still, at least I can 'get it out of my system,' by designing them. :)

Anyway, I took some photos of some fantastic student projects which had been made for a Micam design competitition. Hope you enjoy them.

I'm coming to Micam!

2009-09-14T05:36:00.001-07:00

Well, my flights are finally booked and I'll be descending on Fiera Milano this Thursday and Friday. Link to fair details www.micamonline.com

My plan is to visit the Fair on Thursday and Friday and take a look at the shops on Saturday, not missing my favourite ice cream shop in the Navigli area (because I can not ever stay away from the canals, whichever city they might be in). If you want to meet me - business or social (even just to say hi), or you really need to know where that ice cream shop is, send me an email via www.shoedesign.co.uk

I'm looking forward to it, big time!

Best news I've heard all month!

2009-09-09T14:39:00.000-07:00

Jewellery designer Lara Bohinc is going to launch a shoe line. Wooohoo!

Link

I love Lara Bohinc, lots - right back from when she designed under the name Lara Boeing 747 (Boeing objected to her then brand name heh).

I have one of her bags, gorgeous gunmetal clutch with a chrome stamped metal clasp.

So this is great, the line will be launched for Spring 2010, I'm really, really, hoping that this will be shown at Micam http://www.micamonline.com/ so I can have a sneak preview.

Another jewellery designer I'd like to see going into shoes is Pauric Sweeney. I've been a fan of his designs for a long time, in fact since he sold transparent chokers with fake prosacs in them to ravers on his stall at Portobello market. Do you remember them, Pauric? I do!

Manolo throws a hissy fit.

2009-09-08T03:47:00.000-07:00

From Digital Spy: http://www.digitalspy.co.uk/showbiz/a176272/blahnik-sick-of-sex-and-the-city-link.html

Manolo isn't happy about his SATC associations. Perhaps the ladies who lunch, of Manhattan, who buy his shoes, aren't happy about it either.

I have to say, I'm definately NOT a SATC fan, I'm with you on this one. But, Manolo, did you know, when you do a Google image search for your name, THIS image comes up. Sorry, mate. :(

:( :( :(

Shoe Design Competition #2 Donald J Pliner

2009-09-07T07:14:00.000-07:00

Another shoe design competition, again where the winner gets their shoe made, they get a cash prize and even better, its for a good cause!

In this one they're not going to help themselves to your fantastic idea for a new heel (well I hope not!)

More info here - bizarrely I can't find the information on Donald J Pliners website, but it does say you can pick up an entry form in any of his stores, link to the blog post is here

http://www.stylelist.com/blog/2009/09/03/contest-alert-design-a-shoe-for-donald-j-pliner-and-win-money/

Design your own shoes #1

2009-09-07T06:56:00.000-07:00

http://www.fluevog.com/files_2/os-1.html

Now I'm in two minds about this, this isn't really a competition as there isn't really a prize....

Ok, crowd sourcing, it's the latest thing isn't it? I for one love the t shirt site threadless. http://www.threadless.com/

Ok, if they pick your shoe it gets named after you and you are featured on their site....

But alarm bells start ringing in my head when I read, 'We might use the whole thing, base a design of our own on it or just part of it. And your idea might only be for part of a shoe anyway.'

Ok, got that, so you're going to use us as a free design resource, just cherry picking our ideas, right? Thanks but no thanks all the same :)

Shoe designer accused of using company time and equipment to design for rivals

2009-08-26T01:54:00.000-07:00

http://www.oregonlive.com/business/index.ssf/2009/08/columbia_sportswear_takes_desi.html

Now this is worrying, but I have to say, it sounds to me like he asked for trouble! As a freelancer I become more and more aware of how important confidentiality and contract can be.

The article says, 'an ethics code bans employees from competing with Columbia', well, HELL YEAH! Isn't it a bit disrespectful to work for direct competitors? I know that and do occasionally turn work down, because I feel that there is a conflict of interest there. In fact should you get pigeon holed as a freelancer, this can become a big issue as it will limit the amount of work you can take on. SO, my advice is, don't get pigeon holed! If I have a kids footwear contract, I won't work on another kids footwear contract that season, unless it is for a drastically different company.

You also have to consider that if you work for two rival companies, you could quite easily be accused of copying the other companies ideas, even if you didn't because if the brief is similar, the designs you come up with could be similar, without you even intending it. I wonder if this is what happened with the designer in this case? Perhaps he didn't intend to use ideas he had developed for Columbia, perhaps it just looked that way.

Any designers reading this would probably agree with me, that especially with fashion, it's quite possible to all come up with the same idea at the same time with absolutely no knowledge of what the other designer is doing. That's how fashion works. If I go into a charity shop and see a vintage pair of shoes that I'd have balked at a year ago and suddenly they just look spot on, invariably it means that it a trend that is developing.

There was a discussion about this on ID forum Core 77 last week, it's called Ideas are Like Waves http://boards.core77.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19704

When I worked as a designer at Pentland Group we had clauses in our contract and freelance work was forbidden. Whilst I was there a designer (not a footwear designer, but a graphic designer) was sacked for moonlighting. I guess they were lucky they didn't get taken to court like this guy.

Fact is, if you are an employee, you are being heavily invested in by your employer. They not only pay your salary, your health insurance and your pension and all your expenses and buy your equipment, but they own your ideas that you create there and they rely on you to be able to keep a secret!

If you can't handle this and you are bored of the same brand day-in-day out, then you better go freelance, but you better be able to keep a secret as a freelance shoe designer, or word will soon get around that you cannot be trusted!

If you want to be an employee, then some companies (I'm thinking of Nike) will let you freelance for other companies, but does that includes direct competitors? Hmm I wonder.

New Shoe Design Book

2009-08-21T01:19:00.000-07:00

This new shoe design book has a whopping 384 pages, I reckon it is definately worth a look!

http://www.daab-online.com/books/Style_Books/Shoe_Design.html

I'm not usually much a fan of shoe books as they tend to be the coffee table type, all style over content. If I'm honest, there aren't enough pictures of shoes! But this one looks good!

RIP Skins

2009-08-18T01:03:00.001-07:00

No, not the TV series, the footwear brand. Skins was an innovative shoe design concept where you bought a 'bone' and then customised it with a skin.

They filed to liquidate on Friday

Very sad and it just goes to show that it doesn't matter how innovative your designs are, if you don't have funding, then you are finished.

Shameless Plug!

2009-08-12T09:08:00.000-07:00

Isabelle O'Carrol is a friend of a friend. I've never met her (well, apart from in the virtual world, on a bulletin board, but I've admired her style from afar. Isabelle wrote for the now defunct Catwalk Queen and now that Shiny Media has gone (credit crunched - heh) she is writing for the fabulous shoewawa and she has her own blog which I am shamelessly plugging, here.

Today she interviews VV Brown. Good luck with the new blog! :)

http://www.isabelleoc.co.uk

And another thing... Footwear technologists!

2009-07-27T09:06:00.000-07:00

I know plenty of freelance footwear designers, but what about other freelancers? Those of you who deal with other 'bits' of the design process?

I'm interested to know if freelance footwear technologists exist (apart from in my own imagination).

I have a little shoe fitting project, perhaps only requiring one days work. If you are a freelance footwear technologist and you are reading this blog, please get in touch.

Thank you!
Shoenista.

Calling all shoemakers - I need new contacts!

2009-07-26T08:55:00.000-07:00

I am frequently contacted by clients who are looking for one-off shoe designs to be made, or very small sample runs.

I will only get a factory involved in sampling if a client can place a bulk order -in the 100's for a formal footwear design, in the 1000's for athletic or casual footwear designs, this is because it simply isn't worth the factory's while to make such small amounts of production - they make a loss.

But I do like to help everyone who contacts me and I can if they are happy to work with a shoemaker.

My usual contact for one-off shoemaking is the lovely Trevor in Leyton, but he appears to have vanished! If anyone reading this has an up-to-date number for Trevor, I'd really appreicate it if they could contact me; also if anyone reading this is a shoemaker, with a workshop and has the facilities and skills to pattern cut and handmake shoe designs to order, I'd be very interested to hear from you, from time-to-time I have projects of this nature that I'm willing to pass on.

(Photo credit: Springline lasts)

Recycled shoes

2009-07-16T03:57:00.000-07:00

Linky

It's always great to see someone pushing the envelope when it comes to recycling. I'm not sure if he is the only footwear designer making recycled shoes, there is another brand out there that does so. The footwear brand Softwalker, which has a factory in the UK, will laso make shoes out of your old jeans if you mail some to them. Link clicky

Anyway, well done Matt!

Love this t shirt

2009-07-16T00:55:00.000-07:00

I spend waaay too much time on Google image search and on Bing (weird new name for the old windows image search), when I'm trying to resarch obscure footwear categories. It does turn up some fun stuff though, which I've now got use for because of this blog.

I love this t shirt!

Link!

Do I need Cad specs?

2009-06-26T07:01:00.000-07:00

I'm being contacted lots of late to ask if I can make CAD specs of your shoe designs. Just to clarify, it's not always necessary.
In the world of fast fashion, there usually isn't time for a designer to make cad specs, so they send hand drawings to the factory. In the world of luxury fashion footwear, it is most unusual. Did you ever see uber shoe designer Manolo Blahnik with mouse in hand, working on his specs? Nope?
My advice is to ask the factory how they prefer to work, perhaps if they can provide you with the kind of spec that they are happy to work with. Then if the answer is 'CAD spec', it's time to enlist that freelance footwear designer to help you.

GPS shoes

2009-06-09T07:10:00.001-07:00

Whatever next? A designer of orthopedic footwear and a gps tracking device manufacturer have just announced an agreement to develop GPS embedded orthopedic footwear for seniors with dementia. http://inventorspot.com/articles/gps_shoestracking_parents_alzheimers_disease_28685

How fascinating. I wonder if this could be extended? How about hiking boots with satnav in for lost hikers?

Nicole La Fave New Shoe Designer

2009-05-15T07:04:00.000-07:00

I love this collection...

http://www.behance.net/Gallery/Omelle-SS-2009-Footwear-Collection/223444

High Heeled Bathtub

2009-05-11T03:02:00.001-07:00

Just had to post this, it's in the worst possible taste. If I were a drag queen, I'd definately have this bathtub!

link: http://www.ladiesgadgets.com/hight-heeled-shoe-shaped-bathtubs-from-sicis/

All she needs is a giant shoe-horn shaped back brush and some soap in a dish made to look like shoe polish. I wonder if she has a shower shaped like a boot?

Notes for Budding Jimmy Choos

2009-04-28T14:51:00.000-07:00

It's gonig to be a while before I update my main website, but due to the phenomenal number of enquiries we are getting at the moment, many of the same issues keep coming up , so I thought I'd better write some fresh advice out here.

I hear from around one or two wannabee shoe label owners every single day!

If you want to start your own shoe label, it is an incredibly challenging thing to do. Why?

Well, the footwear trade has gone through a lot of change recently. For instance, here in the UK (which is where about 80% of the enquiries we recieve are from), the footwear trade is unrecognisable from just a few years ago.

There are fewer independant shoe stores, meaning far less places to sell your range to. Chain stores sell own label or the posher ones sell big brands (such as Mr Choo) because it is less of a risk and they know they are reliable and the deliveries will be on time etc. etc. All areas of the market are suffering because of the recession. Both the euro and the dollar are stronger against the pound, so it is a struggle to make shoes, import them, sell them in and make enough money to break even. Even I was surprised to see well established designers such as Emma Hope get into trouble, but that shows how tough it really is.

If you aim is to launch into the womens luxury footwear market, please be aware that it is an already overcrowded market and there are some amazing companies doing a fantastic job already - I'm thinking of Tamara Mellon, the business woman behind Jimmy Choo.

What do you need to succeed? Well, it simply isn't enough to have amazing designs - that is only a tiny part of a big jigsaw. You have to be able to sell these designs and manufacture them, deliver them on time. The quality has to be superb. The price has to be right. As a newcomer you cannot just go in there and charge £800 per pair. (Sorry!)

More often than not if you contact me I will suggest you do some further research first.

Put as much energy into a business plan as you do into your designs. Without a business plan and a vision for your company you will absolutely struggle.

Real life is not like the TV programme Dragons Den. The best order to do things in is business plan which you then use to get investment and once this is in place you can finally concentrate on designs. I know the design bit is the most exciting thing but from my 18 years in the shoe trade I know that with the best designs in the world, if you don't have the business acumen to back it up, you will fail, probably at the first hurdle.

You will need a lot of money to launch your own range. a few hundred won't do it, a few tens of thousands probably will. This is because you cannot expect to even break even until you have been in business for at least a couple of years. In the meantime, sales agents, shippers, the factory etc will all have to be paid.

I'm sure Tamara Mellon would agree with me when I say that, 'she isn't short of a bob or two!', the money she put into the Jimmy Choo company will have certainly helped oil the wheels of the business!

Until you have a business plan and some investment, then you may struggle to get a factory. Samples cost a factory alot of money to develop, far more than the charges that they bill to you. In other words they are investing in you. Unless they think you will give them reasonable orders, they will not want to be involved.

No factory will be interested if you only want to make 20 pairs of production. If we are talking sneakers, then it rises to about 5000 pairs per pattern. If you develop your own outsole, it jumps again to around 20,000 to 40,000 pairs. Its the only way they can recoup their investment in you as a business.

If none of this has put you off and you are willing to learn about business, then I wish you the very best of luck and I look forward to working with you in the future!

Hoss Intropia

2009-02-26T13:45:00.001-08:00

One of my favourite clothing brands is Hoss Intropia. Now their shoes are available from http://www.shudoo.co.uk/

I love this one -

High Heels Font

2009-01-19T23:59:00.000-08:00

Some months ago, I found a beard font, which made us chuckle as some of the letters look very much like my partner, Toby. Now I have found a shoe font! I love it!

link: http://zummi.deviantart.com/art/Highheel-typeface-98346864

Competition!

2009-01-19T09:53:00.000-08:00

For any budding new designers out there - I thought I'd share this competition with you -

Are you familiar with ITS - International Talent Support? Ours is a creative platform for young talents worldwide, providing great exposure and prizes to push your career thanks to our three competitions for fashion design, accessories design and photography. It's an unmissable opportunity for a talent like you! You should definitely give it a try!Every year the most important international press attends the event: i-D, Dazed and Confused, Vogue, Visionaire, New York Times, Herald Tribune...the list goes on and on.Some of the most important names in fashion take part in the fashion & accessories jury: Raf Simons, Antonio Marras, Ennio Capasa, Patti Wilson, Antonio Berardi, to name but a few. If you happen to become an ITS finalist, so many opportunities will knock at your door!! Enrolment is only via our website, and it will be possible to enrol from 13 January 2009. Deadline for your portfolio to arrive in our offices is 25 March 2009. From 13 January 2009 you can go on our website, www.itsweb.org and explore it as much as you can (there's every information on the contest as well as photos and videos from past editions). In particular, click on "ACCESSORIES" on the upper right side of the home page for all information. We want you to enrol!! To have a look at where finalists of ITS are working today, click on "Press" in our homepage and a dropdown menu will appear. Click on "Past Finalists Now"

The cruise collections - or pre season

2008-11-30T12:49:00.000-08:00

I, for one, really look forward to the cruise collections, when I'm sitting six inches from the radiator and its frosty outside, its a little lift to the soul to see summery styles, especially brightly coloured sandals like this cute Givency flat sandal. Tip for Summer 09 from me- brights like this bubblegum pink are going to be key! Source: http://www.net-a-porter.com

On Shoes excellent website

2008-11-29T13:55:00.001-08:00

I've always loved Sugar shoes, I had something like four or five pairs of the funky floral boots that they are known for. These are an excellent winter version of. They remind me of the boots that Hong Kong teenagers wear, the kind of boots I have spent literally hours traipsing around the street markets of said city to find, but they never had them in my size! Finally I've found them on a UK website.

Us shoe designers really rate Vibram soles, they are the hardest wearing of all - as I sit here typing this - I'm wearing my Merrel sheepskin boots with yup, Vibram soles. I saw these vibram mentalist shoes in Italy last summer, had no idea you could get them here. I reckon they'd be great for boating - I won't fall off the gunwhates when I wear these babies!

Go here http://www.onshoes.com/

2008-11-18T05:35:00.000-08:00

http://www.homeys.co.uk/

So what have we been up to over the past year?

2008-11-18T05:32:00.000-08:00

http://www.shudoo.co.uk/shop/jumbuck/